Hedgerows Garden Tapestry Journal

Horticulture News from Around the World: 
“Robots slug it out in the killing fields” by Adrian Lee. From The Times, Jan 08, 2000.

The slug, bane of gardener and farmer alike, should be afraid. Very afraid. 

Scientists have developed a robot that not only seeks and destroys the pests but is powered by fuel made from their slimy remains.

The “slugbot” prowls on a four-wheel-drive system, relies on light sensors to identify its prey and grabs it with an extendable arm. From sighting to capture takes a mere three seconds. A prototype of the killing machine, developed by engineers at the University of the West of England, in Bristol, will take to the fields in a matter of weeks.

For the moment the robot is powered by battery, but future versions will drop the slugs into a fermentation station that will break them down into methane gas to be used as fuel. Ten average-size slugs should provide an hour’s power for the robots, which will be programmed to make regular visits to the station

Dr Ian Kelly, one of four scientists working on the project, said that the slug was chosen as prey because it could not run away and an outcry over its mass slaughter was thought to be unlikely. The snail, another enemy of the gardener, got a lucky break because it has a shell that hinders decomposition.

The robot, which is 2ft high, is designed to operate at night, when slugs do most of their damage. The pests emit a different infra-red wavelength from earthworms, soil and snails. What began as a research project to create the world’s first self-sustaining robot also promises to become a commercial success.

The Soil Association welcomed the robot yesterday as an invention that could rid farmers of slugs without the need for pellets. At present, £10 million is spent each year on the chemical control of slugs.

The “slugbots”, developed over two years at a cost of £150,000, are expected eventually to work in teams and sell for about £1,000 each.

by Judith Brand and Cyril Hume.

There are already many signs of the approaching spring season - make sure you take the time to notice them now, while you are out in the garden - early spring bulbs such as aconites, snowdrops, crocus, iris reticulata will already be peeking through, the lovely scented winter jasmine and witch hazel, and later this month, magnolias and forsythia bloom in this area and the fat buds are almost ready to go!

1. General Clean-up of Beds
February is probably the best time of year for a really thorough garden clean up. Carefully go through all your beds and borders and remove any unwanted plants (weeds or more desirables). Put the weeds on the compost heap, and either move the others to a better location, or share them with your friends. Remove all old vegetation that has died back before it starts to rot, this includes any remaining stems of perennials, piles of leaves, etc.

2. Prune and tidy perennials
Cut back all of last years growth on herbaceous perennials this month, before fresh new growth makes this job much harder and more time-consuming. In milder areas such as the West Coast of Canada and the south of England, this can be done immediately. In cooler areas, wait until the end of this month, so that the old growth can provide that last bit of extra protection from the elements.

3. Winter Mulching
Now that the borders are relatively clear, it is an excellent time to add a thick layer of mulch and/or compost material to them. Carefully sprinkle this material around the plants, taking care not to bury the crowns of perennials too deeply, only add a thin layer over the tops. Several inches spread evenly works best. If you are really careful, the material can be gently forked into the top few inches of the soil, or you can just leave it and it will work its way down during the next few months all by itself.

4.Wildlife in the Garden
Overwintering pests can be removed if you find them now - groups of snails will often hide together in sheltered corners of the garden. Choose your favourite disposal method (try to do better than throwing them over your fence into your neighbours garden - he’ll probably be doing the same thing to you anyway, so you’ll both just end up with a fresh set!). Do be careful not to disturb friendly animals hibernating in these quiet corners, such as hedgehogs in Europe, and racoons in North America. Keep the bird feeders clean and well-stocked, and don’t forget their water sources.

5. Prune deciduous hedges and shrubs
Late winter is an excellent time to rejuvenate deciduous shrubs and hedges with some careful pruning. Remove overly thick branches to let in light and air and encourage fresh, strong growth from the base in spring. Prune for shape as desired, since the outline of the bush is clearly visible.

6. Clean Greenhouses and Cold Frames
Thoroughly scrub out and wash greenhouses and cold frames to prepare them for the early seedlings and cutting soon to be filling them. By keeping them scrupulously clean, you cut down greatly on disease and pests of all manners. Sweep out the corners and wash the glass to let in as much light as possible.

7. Move Snowdrops “in the green”
Much ado is made about this mysterious practice of moving snowdrops in the green, but I think it really boils down to convenience - do it now while you can see them clearly and know where they are!! Lift blooming clumps carefully with a spade and relocate around the garden to spread. If you do not wish them to self-seed, remember to deadhead them once their flowers are over, though why anyone wouldn’t want more of these lovely flowers is beyond me! A real treat is to put a few into a nice container and bring indoors to enjoy - they have a delicate honey-like fragrance that isn’t usually noticeable outside but you can enjoy it on your dining room table or desk. If this takes too long, they also last a surprisingly long time as cut flowers, and make delightful tiny bouquets - put them in a shooter glass or other small container for best effect.

8. Plant bare-root shrubs
Fruit trees, roses and soft fruit can all be planted now. Soak them for a few hours in tepid water if they look really dried out. Plant to the correct level, just above the base of the canes, and add a thick mulch around to protect it from the last cold days and prevent drying out. They should be off to a good start shortly, and provide fruit and flowers in the first year.

9. Layer Rhodos
Some shrubs such as rhododendrons and azaleas respond well to layering and this is an inexpensive way to increase your stock of these expensive plants. Pull downwards a low-growing branch and peg it to the soil. A slight wound on the bottom will encourage rooting. Leave the peg and branch in place until next year, when it can be severed from the parent plant and moved on.

10. Order Seeds
Make sure to get the seed varieties you need for your garden soon - many new or really desirable ones will already be sold out for the season, but no matter, there are lots of lovely plants left. Beginner gardeners should try simple seeds first to gain experience and confidence in the process, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with these basic garden staples!! Almost completely failsafe are annuals such as cosmos, lavatera, baby’s breath, bachelor buttons, sweet alyssum and many more. No matter how good a gardener you are, and how long you’ve been at it, no garden is really complete without these simple comfortable old friends cheering you up.

by Sharon Hanna

Everyone’s favourite “BI” - the ladybird

For years, well-meaning gardeners routinely maimed, swatted, sprayed and squished every bug they could get their hands on. However careful observation of nature and the move to organic practices have shown that encouraging “good” bugs, or beneficial insects (the politically correct name) is one way to give Mother Nature a hand. She was doing a fine job, however the use of pesticides, combined with overzealous tidiness resulted in loss of normal bio-diversity in our gardens.

Just as when you take antibiotics, and your doctor advises yogurt to normalize the flora within your body, the attraction of beneficials back to your garden can restore balance and harmony in your back yard.

Think before you squish - make this your mantra for the new Millennium. Remember that you may not always know why this creature is climbing the clematis, lurking on the lobelia, or sniffing your snapdragons. 

Everyone’s least favourite garden pest, aphids, seen here smothering rose buds.

“Don’t be in a Hurry with your Seeds!” by David Tarrant

February is often the month when we get carried away and start to sow annual seeds too early for the season ahead. The key factor to think about when sowing seeds is to count how many weeks it will be before it is safe to plant them outside. In climates such as ours on the west coast this is usually around the third week of May, while in cooler areas it may not be until the first week of June.

Usually twelve to fourteen weeks growing time is just right for the average bedding plant. However, it must be stressed that having the correct conditions is vital for success. All seedlings respond well to being sown in a temperature around 18-20 Celsius. But once germinated, they need much cooler temperatures: around 12 by day and down to 8 or 10 degrees at night. During the day, supplemental light for thirteen hours is a great help. It can be as simple as two fluorescent tubes, one warm white and the other cool white, mounted in a moveable holder so that they can be adjusted to be 30 to 40 cm from the seedlings - this will prevent stretched growth. Good air circulation is essential at all times to prevent fungus attacks and damping off.

Rather than being too hasty to sow seeds this month, concentrate on preparing a room - either a spare room or in your basement. Better yet, get your cool greenhouse ready for a mass sowing next month.

Final Thoughts:
“Welcome to the New Year” by Mala Gunadasa-Rohling

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year celebrations. It was truly amazing watching and waiting for the Millennium, sharing it with everyone around the world on TV. As planned, we stayed home with all my family and some relatives, quiet and cosy and perfect, amid the anticipated chaos. Thank goodness nothing happened! What a sense of relief as 2000 struck around the globe, country by country, and everything was exactly just like it was before…almost anticlimactic for those who expected (and maybe even hoped for) a disaster, but by far the majority of us just glad for a night of peaceful celebration.

Of course, us gardeners never expected anything else really. Why else would we have planted all those little bulbs a few weeks ago in hopes of spring blooms? Or ordered seeds to sow this February? Or packed away our precious tools so carefully for next season? We know  how little Nature cares about our pathetic little crises and self-inflicted problems! Y2K bugs, millennium madness, second comings, power goings, etc.are strictly for people completely out of touch with the real world, not us. We knew everything would be just fine…all the plants would keep growing or waiting patiently dormant for warmer weather, the birds flying around and eating the last of the autumn berries, and the sun shining the next day. And so here we are, on the other side, ready for yet another year in our beloved gardens just like before.

We didn’t get any snow here for Christmas, which is always a little disappointing, for the kids and the adults too. We did, however, get a good thick blanket of fog which is almost as good for moody atmosphere in the garden (and you don’t need to shovel it….) What fog does is remind you of some of the basic tenants of good garden design: remember the fore, mid and background views across the area. Fog enhances the sense of perspective as things further away disappear much quicker than they normally do in clear situations. You appreciate having a small feature tree or shrub halfway across the garden that you can partially see while the further reaches are completely obscured, and the foreground is sharp and clear. It is simple to do in any size garden, and in all weather conditions will add interest and depth to your garden space.

It was a real treat walking through the woods behind our house on the day before Christmas Eve, collecting branches of holly, cedar, fir, pyracantha, ferns, mahonia, and other evergreens to decorate the house for our anticipated Christmas guests (they never showed up due to a last minute case of the flu!). Never mind, that day was really special, the thick fog making it seem like I was a million miles away, even though I was just beyond the end of the garden. I made a mental note to make sure I have some of these plants in my own garden so I don’t have to raid the lot next door for my seasonal greenery.

   
Holly berry substitutes can include Viburnum sp. (left) or Skimmia (right). Others that work well are rose hips, crab apples, cotoneaster, etc.

Everyone must have some holly, Chrismas just isn’t the same without it. Turns out that all the many bushes around our place must be all male since there was plenty of shiny spiny leaves but narry a berry in sight! Conversely, maybe they were all female without a male, how would I know… anyway, no real holly berries, so I had to do a quick substitution with pyracantha. It worked really well, and no-one seemed to notice. So this is a must for my holiday garden as well - I’d plant it even if the birds didn’t enjoy them as much as I did, but I’m glad they do, as there is always lots to share.

Ivy, well, we’ve got that almost rampant around the garden, so no worries there. As for the most famous holiday plant, mistletoe, none around here! I did find a wild berry bush with little white berries which I used instead. I don’t know what it is called, I’ll find out for next time and let you know. And of course, evergreens of every shape and colour are essential. Forest green cedars, mid-green firs and pines, blue spruce, yews so dark they are almost black, etc. Don’t forget the broadleaf evergreens also such as laurel, privet, rhododendrons, and many others They all look great at any time of the year, and give structure and form to the winter garden.

     
Beautiful and varied colours of “evergreens” include blue Picea (left), yellow Abies (centre) and green Junipers (right).

It is almost time already to start thinking about the witch hazels coming out, and the lovely snowdrops and early crocuses. At this darkest time of the year, these make for shining little beacons in the night, soon to draw us out into the light.

Happy Gardening in 2000.

Horticulture News from Around the World:

Trees that live for 1,000 years astound scientists

By Nick Nuttall, Environment Correspondent, The Times

SOME trees in the Amazon rainforests are hundreds of years older than previously thought, researchers say.

The rapid cycles of growth and decay in the forests had led most experts to estimate that the trees were no more than 300 years old. But scientists using sophisticated radio-carbon dating have found that at least four species can achieve ages of well over 1,000 years. The findings emerged from a study by Anna Lewington and Edward Parker, who trawled the globe for ancient, millennial trees.

Mr Parker, a photographer and environmentalist, said yesterday that while in Brazil they heard of scientists following in the footsteps of logging companies. The scientists, led by Dr Jeffrey Chambers of the University of California, and Dr Niro Higuchi of the National Institute for Amazon Research, tested the age of trees from 13 Amazon species. “We tracked them down near the Amazonian city of Manuas, where we learnt of their extraordinary findings,” Mr Parker said. Ages were found to range from 200 to 1,400 years, with an average of 500 to 600 years.

Ms Lewington, a botanist, said: “Four species of Amazonian trees were shown definitely to live to over 1,000 years old. These are the castanha de macaco, or monkeynut tree; the cumaru; the angelim da mata; and the macaraanduba.”

The couple have spent a year visting 15 countries, including Lebanon, South Africa, Namibia, Chile, China and New Zealand. Their findings have been recorded in Ancient Trees: Trees That Live for a Thousand Years. Mr Parker said: “At the beginning of this project we were hoping to include some 24 species of trees that live to over 1,000 years. However, we discovered more and more examples of ancient trees. The number of candidates has risen now to nearly 100 species, and the list is still growing.”

It is believed that the oldest living tree may be a yew in a church yard in Perthshire, Scotland. A small-leaved lime, growing at Westonbirt Aboretum, Gloucestershire, is estimated at 6,000 years old.

Gardeners In The News:

Mandela’s garden gets a TV makeover

By Paul McCann, Media Correspondent, The Times

Down the garden path: Mr Mandela returned home to find Alan Titchmarsh, Charlie Dimmock and, right, Tommy Walsh from Ground Force. Photograph: BBC

THEY are the famous team of surprise visitors who like to sneak in and rearrange gardens while the owners are away. But the latest target of the BBC’s Ground Force was a little beyond their usual patch. He was one Nelson Mandela, of the Eastern Cape.

When the statesman returned home last weekend and was confronted with the garden they had created, he had no idea who Charlie Dimmock and Alan Titchmarsh were. But South Africa’s former President courteously remarked that the famously bra-less Ms Dimmock looked like one of the Spice Girls. In the past, Mr Mandela has said that meeting the Spice Girls was one of the greatest days of his life.

It had taken the BBC six months of talks with Mr Mandela’s security detail and his wife, Graça Machel, to be allowed access to the garden at his retirement home in Qunu. Ms Machel was sent videos of other Ground Force exploits.

The idea of a make-over on Mr Mandela’s garden came from a South African-born producer working on the programme. “We were asked by the BBC to find someone really special for the millennium show,” said Carol Haslam, executive producer. “The problem is that if you did any kind of well-heeled star, viewers might think, ‘Why are they getting all this work done for free - they can afford their own garden designers?’ We knew we would not have that problem with Nelson Mandela.”

While Mr Mandela, 81, was on a trip to New York at the weekend, the gardening team installed a pergola, a water feature, slate paving and bedding plants in a small patch of garden overlooked by his private study. When Mr Mandela saw the new garden, he professed himself delighted.

Mr Titchmarsh, who designed the new garden, said yesterday: “Nelson Mandela is one of the world’s most inspirational figures. His struggle has been a lesson to us all, and I was particularly struck reading in his memoirs how important gardening became during his imprisonment.”

When Mr Mandela was imprisoned on Robben Island one of his few pleasures was tending his own small garden in the prison yard where he grew tomatoes and vegetables. It was, he has said, one of the few things in prison that he could control.

“The sense of being the custodian of this small patch of earth offered a small taste of freedom,” Mr Mandela wrote in his memoirs. “I saw the garden as a metaphor for certain aspects of my life. A leader must also tend his garden; he, too, sows seeds, and then watches, cultivates and harvests the result.”

Mr Mandela’s garden features in the millennium episode of Ground Force on January 2. During the programme, the team see the prison garden he created on Robben Island.

The garden that the team took on was bare turf round a new home that the former African National Congress leader has just had built. Mr Mandela invited his television gardeners to stay for tea after seeing his garden and read to them the passage on gardening from his book. “He seemed delighted,” added Mr Titchmarsh. “But rather poignantly, he said that he just hoped that he had enough time to enjoy it.”

The programme-makers were assisted in setting up the secret transformation by one of Mr Mandela’s closest friends, Ahmed Kathrada, who was a political prisoner with Mr Mandela during the apartheid era and knew of his love of gardening from their prison days.

Mr Mandela was surprised at his wife’s involvement in the secrecy. When he saw the garden, he said to her: “We’re not supposed to have any secrets.”

NOTE: If you are lucky enough to live in England, watch for the special episode of Ground Force on BBC in January.

January Garden Action Items:

As long as you aren’t buried under three feet of snow, there is always a lot of work to do in the garden, so bundle up warmly, put on your wellies and out you go…

1. Hardwood Cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings of your favourite shrubs to increase your stock - just think, they will make great Christmas presents for your friends next year! Follow the detailed instructions on the page “Hardwood Cuttings”

2. Houseplant Care:
Water houseplants sparingly - they are not usually growing as vigorously as during the other seasons and will not require as much water. Do try to keep up the humidity around them though, as indoor winter air can be extremely dry. Stand shallow bowls of warm water around your pots, or stand them on a large plant tray full of pebbles, making sure to keep the water level just below the pot bottom so water isn’t wicked up into the pot and overwaters your plants. Give your houseplants as much strong bright light as possible, but keep them away from cold draughts, and radiators. Never leave a plant on a windowsill between the glass and closed curtains or blinds, it is much too cold. Move them away from the windows at night, and back in the morning.

3. Winter Pruning of Trees and Shrubs:
With the tree framework clearly visible during this time of year, it is much easier to see what pruning is necessary, if any. Remove any damaged or diseased branches first, no matter where they are on a plant, as it would be unhealthy to leave them. Then start to remove more selectively any crossing branches, or any that are badly placed, or going where you don’t want them. Try to have an open, clear centre on a tree, with the main branches growing in an attractive shape outwards. This lets in light and air into the centre of the tree and prevents stale, stagnant air which may harbour disease. Be sure to use the right tool for the job - pruners or a sharp knife for small branches only; loppers and saws where necessary to get a clean, sharp cut.

4. Snow Removal
In areas of significant snowfall (or the wet, heavy type of snow we get in milder areas), it is always a good idea to walk around the garden and where possible, remove any snow from vulnerable plants such as specimen trees and shrubs and the tops of hedges. This prevents branches being weighed down and possibly broken or damaged by the weight of the snow.

5. Clean up and Preparation
Thoroughly clean cold frames and cloches not in use so they will be ready for those early seeds and cuttings. Use hot, soapy water and a good scrub brush and wash both inside and outside of all surfaces to remove grime and any overwintering pests.

6. Soil and Bed Preparation
Put down a layer of compost and/or leaf mould over your borders. Lightly work it in with a fork, being extremely careful around the surface crowns of perennials, and emerging shoots of spring bulbs. You don’t have to dig around too much, the rain and worms will all help to mix the layers together through the year.

7. Moving Shrubs.
This is a good time to move any shrub or small tree that is growing in the wrong spot, or one that has outgrown it’s current position. Prepare the new planting hole well, digging some compost into a hole wider and deeper than the rootball of the plant to be moved. Carefully move the plant, taking care to disturb the soil around the roots as little as possible and place in the new spot at the same depth as before. Firm the soil and stake the tree if necessary. Water in well, and mulch with bark or more compost. If the shrub is very large, prune it back a little to help the roots support it.

8. Plant New Shrubs:
Bare root shrubs such as roses can be planted now, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid. Follow the directions above for moving shrubs.

9. Bring the Garden Indoors:
Bring pots of spring flowering bulbs indoors now for early blooms. Start to water them a little more and enjoy early snowdrops, daffodils, hyacinths, and more. Another great thing to do is cut some branches from early spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, cherry, witch hazel, etc to bring indoors. I enjoy doing this even with shrubs that don’t flower, as the fresh new leaves are so beautiful and delicate in themselves. Simply put them in a cool, bright area in a large heavy vase of water, and pretend it is already spring!

10. Order Your Seeds Early
It is time now to order your seed varieties for the upcoming season, especially the new or “hot” varieties for the year, as these sell out very quickly. You should have received a few seed catalogues already, more are probably on their way right now. Always make a point to try at least one or two new ones a year, maybe not the latest and greatest of anything, just something you haven’t got in your garden and always wanted. Check out eSeeds for all your favourite brands, all in one place for convenience and security - we will be adding new varieites non-stop for the next few months, so come back often.

January Garden How-To:

Hardwood Cuttings:

Continue to take fully ripe, hardwood cuttings from trees and shrubs to increase your stock or share with friends. This is as easy to do as the soft cuttings most people are more comfortable doing - here’s how:

a) Choose strong side shoots, about as thick as a pencil, from the current year’s growth.

b) Cut with a clean, sharp knife or pruner just below a bud. If the cutting is longer than 1 foot, trim the top as necessary.

c) Remove all but the top leaves in milder areas, all of them in colder areas (if there are any left).

d) Make a narrow, V-shaped trench in a shady, protected spot in the garden, about 6-9 inches deep. Sprinkle an inch of coarse sand in the bottom to help with drainage.

e) Dip the base of each cutting into a rooting hormone powder. Lay them almost vertically on the side of the trench, about 6 inches apart, with the base firmly in the sand.  Fill back the trench, almost burying the cuttings. For cold climates, cover with mulch once the ground is completely frozen.

f) Leave them in place until next fall before transplanting to their final location.

Plants to try propagating this way include roses, dogwoods, honeysuckles, philadelphus, poplar, ribes, willow and many others. Try a few different varieties, as some do take easier than others. Good luck!