Hedgerows Garden Tapestry Journal

January Garden Action Items:

As long as you aren’t buried under three feet of snow, there is always a lot of work to do in the garden, so bundle up warmly, put on your wellies and out you go…

1. Hardwood Cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings of your favourite shrubs to increase your stock - just think, they will make great Christmas presents for your friends next year! Follow the detailed instructions on the page “Hardwood Cuttings”

2. Houseplant Care:
Water houseplants sparingly - they are not usually growing as vigorously as during the other seasons and will not require as much water. Do try to keep up the humidity around them though, as indoor winter air can be extremely dry. Stand shallow bowls of warm water around your pots, or stand them on a large plant tray full of pebbles, making sure to keep the water level just below the pot bottom so water isn’t wicked up into the pot and overwaters your plants. Give your houseplants as much strong bright light as possible, but keep them away from cold draughts, and radiators. Never leave a plant on a windowsill between the glass and closed curtains or blinds, it is much too cold. Move them away from the windows at night, and back in the morning.

3. Winter Pruning of Trees and Shrubs:
With the tree framework clearly visible during this time of year, it is much easier to see what pruning is necessary, if any. Remove any damaged or diseased branches first, no matter where they are on a plant, as it would be unhealthy to leave them. Then start to remove more selectively any crossing branches, or any that are badly placed, or going where you don’t want them. Try to have an open, clear centre on a tree, with the main branches growing in an attractive shape outwards. This lets in light and air into the centre of the tree and prevents stale, stagnant air which may harbour disease. Be sure to use the right tool for the job - pruners or a sharp knife for small branches only; loppers and saws where necessary to get a clean, sharp cut.

4. Snow Removal
In areas of significant snowfall (or the wet, heavy type of snow we get in milder areas), it is always a good idea to walk around the garden and where possible, remove any snow from vulnerable plants such as specimen trees and shrubs and the tops of hedges. This prevents branches being weighed down and possibly broken or damaged by the weight of the snow.

5. Clean up and Preparation
Thoroughly clean cold frames and cloches not in use so they will be ready for those early seeds and cuttings. Use hot, soapy water and a good scrub brush and wash both inside and outside of all surfaces to remove grime and any overwintering pests.

6. Soil and Bed Preparation
Put down a layer of compost and/or leaf mould over your borders. Lightly work it in with a fork, being extremely careful around the surface crowns of perennials, and emerging shoots of spring bulbs. You don’t have to dig around too much, the rain and worms will all help to mix the layers together through the year.

7. Moving Shrubs.
This is a good time to move any shrub or small tree that is growing in the wrong spot, or one that has outgrown it’s current position. Prepare the new planting hole well, digging some compost into a hole wider and deeper than the rootball of the plant to be moved. Carefully move the plant, taking care to disturb the soil around the roots as little as possible and place in the new spot at the same depth as before. Firm the soil and stake the tree if necessary. Water in well, and mulch with bark or more compost. If the shrub is very large, prune it back a little to help the roots support it.

8. Plant New Shrubs:
Bare root shrubs such as roses can be planted now, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid. Follow the directions above for moving shrubs.

9. Bring the Garden Indoors:
Bring pots of spring flowering bulbs indoors now for early blooms. Start to water them a little more and enjoy early snowdrops, daffodils, hyacinths, and more. Another great thing to do is cut some branches from early spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, cherry, witch hazel, etc to bring indoors. I enjoy doing this even with shrubs that don’t flower, as the fresh new leaves are so beautiful and delicate in themselves. Simply put them in a cool, bright area in a large heavy vase of water, and pretend it is already spring!

10. Order Your Seeds Early
It is time now to order your seed varieties for the upcoming season, especially the new or “hot” varieties for the year, as these sell out very quickly. You should have received a few seed catalogues already, more are probably on their way right now. Always make a point to try at least one or two new ones a year, maybe not the latest and greatest of anything, just something you haven’t got in your garden and always wanted. Check out eSeeds for all your favourite brands, all in one place for convenience and security - we will be adding new varieites non-stop for the next few months, so come back often.

January Garden How-To:

Hardwood Cuttings:

Continue to take fully ripe, hardwood cuttings from trees and shrubs to increase your stock or share with friends. This is as easy to do as the soft cuttings most people are more comfortable doing - here’s how:

a) Choose strong side shoots, about as thick as a pencil, from the current year’s growth.

b) Cut with a clean, sharp knife or pruner just below a bud. If the cutting is longer than 1 foot, trim the top as necessary.

c) Remove all but the top leaves in milder areas, all of them in colder areas (if there are any left).

d) Make a narrow, V-shaped trench in a shady, protected spot in the garden, about 6-9 inches deep. Sprinkle an inch of coarse sand in the bottom to help with drainage.

e) Dip the base of each cutting into a rooting hormone powder. Lay them almost vertically on the side of the trench, about 6 inches apart, with the base firmly in the sand.  Fill back the trench, almost burying the cuttings. For cold climates, cover with mulch once the ground is completely frozen.

f) Leave them in place until next fall before transplanting to their final location.

Plants to try propagating this way include roses, dogwoods, honeysuckles, philadelphus, poplar, ribes, willow and many others. Try a few different varieties, as some do take easier than others. Good luck!

“Late December Decisions” by ???

As I sit writing this journal entry to close to the dreaded Y2K, I stop and think we may not have to worry about pruning or seed ordering in a few days. If things collapse next week I can be sure of one thing - the bamboo jungle in front of my house is sure to survive…

It’s rather pleasant these days on the Wetcoast, plantwise, that is. The walk up to the video store offers an education in winter flowering plants as well as hedging of which I am in desperate need.

First there is the incredible Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum). Its name tells all. Florum meaning flowers or flowering and nudi, for naked. The zone 6-10 plant has long leafless stems with beautiful yellow flowers. Paler yellow than forsythia and a great sight in late December and January when there’s not too much happening out there. Placed perfectly on the top of a 10 ft high concrete bank, the flowering stems which can trail up to 12′-15′ hide much of the concrete wall. Winter Jasmine is so vigorous, I don’t feel guilty at all clipping branches throughout the winter for indoor flowers.

Jasmine nudiflorum flowers on bare stems before the leaves, thus the name ‘nudiflorum’.

You can grow this easily by cuttings without rooting hormones at anytime of year. Plant in most any soil - it will do quite well in poor soils and does not need to be babied with lots of water. Full sun or shade (less flowers in the shade).

Past the Winter Jasmine, there are a few houses with some very choice plantings. In particular, a very handsome Privet hedge. I believe it is California Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) hardy in zones 6-10. It must be about 12′ high in a planting about 20′ long and quite narrow in spread, about 5′, from diligent pruning I would expect. It does the job that’s for sure. The hedge is a perfect screen from the neighbors next door, even in the winter because of its semi-evergreen (evergreen this year) status. All Privets grow fast so the only downfall is the maintenance factor. Pruning is essential if you want this specimen as a hedge, as well as a part-shade to sunny location.

   
Try alternating holly varieties for a beautiful, festive hedge

Another hedge that nearly got me into a car accident was a brilliant planting of Holly (Ilex crenata). Am I the only one who looks at the hedges and trees more than the road? This hazardous 15′ hedge was very dense with two different varieties planted alternately the whole length of the house. One was a variegated variety with lots of creamy yellow leaf and the other was a very dark lustrous green with berries sprinkled here and there. It was beautiful. Darned if I know the varieties, there was no parking nearby. Ilex is a slow grower in zones 5-7 with some cultivars performing adequately in zone 8, but that’s getting a bit warm for these evergreens.

My ongoing hedge stress…The Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ bushes planted a few months ago are doing fine. They actually have a small raceme of yellow flowers this year but haven’t budged in height yet. Perhaps they will shoot up in the spring. Unfortunately, they are slow growing shrubs. Slow, as in 2-3′ over 3 years!

What to do, what to do. May try some privet, but really have my eyes on a yellow flowering Camellia…Or maybe some just some boring old Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus). Can you tell I’m a Libra?

by Linda D. Harris, Horticulturist, Ferry-Morse Seed Company

Winter covers the ground everywhere north of Zone 8. Right now your next garden is still a dream. Begin now to make the dream real.

Start planning on paper. Then begin thinking about which seeds to start for the next garden’s flowers, herbs and vegetables indoors. Growing plants from seed is infinitely more satisfying than setting out plants you’ve purchased. Try it and see if you don’t agree.

Organize Your Supplies

You’ll need a plant light or a large, south-facing window; seed-starting pots and trays; seed-starting medium; plastic labels; a pencil or dibble; and a mister bottle. These are the basics. You can also get fancy with a light timer, a copper watering can with a rose attachment, wrought-iron stands, humidifiers, soil thermometers, and the like. But those are optional.

Light

I’ve had the best seedling results with a normal fluorescent shop light hung from chains in the basement. Or use a tabletop plant light with cool-white fluorescent tubes.The critical thing is to provide light close to the tops of the plants. By this, I mean 6 to 8 inches above the top leaves. As plants grow, lights have to move up, too. The other requirement is to leave the lights on 12 to 18 hours per day, then off at night. This simulates nature’s “day” and produces the best germination and early growth.

Later I use my shop lights to grow later-started seedlings, and all year round I grow blooming and green plants underneath. I always have a “green spot” to cheer my eye and my soul.

If you are using a large, south-facing window, get the plants right IN the window, as close as possible to the glass, and turn them daily. Plants grown with nature’s light may dry out faster and have the disadvantage of occasionally being a little spindly.

Seed-Starting Medium

Please use a sterile seed starting medium, available in bags so marked, for starting your seeds. Starting with sterile medium assures you of the best environment for seedlings. Also use new plastic or peat pots or trays. Please don’t use ones from before; there could be diseases present.

Temperature

To germinate, seeds need soil which is moist and ranging between 65 to 70 degrees F. Some like it warmer. This is the SOIL temperature I’m talking about. I like to put my seed trays up on the refrigerator until I see the first seedling popping through. This “bottom heat” is especially good for impatiens and pepper seeds.Once the seeds have germinated and they are under the lights, the AIR temperature should be 70 to 75 degrees F. during the day or cooler, and 60 to 65 degrees F. at night. This fluctuating temperature is very important to plant growth. First, it mimics nature. During the day when the lights are on, the small plants are producing food and new cells. The fluorescent light keeps them from getting too warm. When air temperatures are too high, the growth will be too fast, which makes the cell walls thinner and the plants weak. That’s why they often flop over and cause your heart to despair. But with cooler night temperatures and a cycle of dark, the plants have a normal rest cycle which strengthens their cell growth.

My house naturally fluctuates in temperature during the winter, as I’m sure yours does. At night, the thermostat is turned lower for the comfort of the humans and pets, and is perfect for plants as well.

Water

The key to watering seedlings is “evenly moist”. That means an equal amount of water all the way through the medium.Some people like to water from the bottom when plants are very small, allowing pots or trays to soak up water for an hour or so, then taking the water source away.You can also water from the top, using a very gentle stream. The best time to water is when the surface of the medium begins to lighten (indicating it is beginning to dry out). Water during the daylight cycle so leaves can dry off well before dark sets in. This will help prevent mildew problems.

Remember to check your seedlings daily and don’t let them dry out. But don’t let them stay too wet, either. When plants are very small, they don’t use as much water as they will later when their roots develop and grow.

Flowers to Start Indoors

Some annual flowers need a headstart indoors because they are either slow to germinate or slow-growing to the transplant stage.These annual seeds do best if started indoors: coleus, impatiens, flowering kale, lobelia, melampodium, pansy, petunia, pinks, verbena, and vinca (periwinkle).

        
Petunias, coleus, verbena, pansies

Likewise some perennials, if started early indoors, may bloom the first year in the garden. Another benefit of starting some perennials indoors is to set out a sturdy, started plant for best growth and performance.

Perennial seeds for indoor starting include columbine, delphinium, English daisy, moss verbena, ornamental fountain grass, pinks, salvia, veronica and viola.

Vegetables to Start Indoors

Eggplant, onion, and pepper seeds need some time (10 to 12 weeks) to develop indoors, and that’s why I’ve listed them first. Tomatoes also need a headstart, but please don’t start them until about March. Only 6 to 8 weeks are required for tomato plants growing indoors. Many people get impatient and start tomatoes too early, ending up with large, floppy, hungry plants which may not transplant as well as smaller ones do.

Herbs to Start Indoors

These herb seeds are good candidates for a bit of a headstart: catmint, catnip, clary, horehound, lavender, lemon balm, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme.Soak parsley seed in room-temperature water for several hours before planting to give it a little boost.

Choosing Varieties

There are so many varieties of flowers and vegetables to choose from, it can be confusing. Here are some guidelines to refer to before you choose. Flowers: You’ll want to think about where you’ll be planting them as you select the variety. Check the height of the plant. For massed plantings, you may want to grow a single color for greatest impact. For vegetables, check the days to maturity/harvest. Some varieties are earlier than others and this can be an important factor in what you grow for food. And if a variety has been deemed an “All-America Winner” or a “Fleuroselect Winner”, you know already that it will perform well for you because it has been tested extensively and judged to be superior.

Ferry Morse Seed Company is an eSeeds Business Partner.

“Pruning Houseplants” by David Tarrant

January is a good time to prune certain houseplants, particularly such vigorous growers as hibiscus and bougainvillea.

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese Hibiscus) is a beautiful and easy houseplant.

With the many indoor cultivars of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, if they are in a well-lit sunny window, they continue to send out the odd blossom even at this time of the year making the decision to prune a difficult task. However, the shrubby stems should be pruned back by at least two thirds by the end of the month. If it is a standard on a single stem, just the top bushy branches should be pruned. If you have to prune back into leafless branches, always prune directly above an outward facing dormant bud (as for roses outdoors).

Bougainvillea glabra and its many cultivars are often grown as houseplants which are put outside for the summer and brought indoors for the winter months, where they often lose most of their leaves. It is a rambunctious, thorny vine in nature and tends to form quite a dense mass which should also be pruned and thinned out this month. With most bougainvilleas, there are definite main branches which should be left unpruned; however, all the side shoots coming from them should be pruned back to within a couple of leaf buds from the main stem.

Pruning your woody houseplants at this time of year will encourage plenty of healthy new growth during the next six to eight weeks leading to great blooms later in the year.

Bougainvillea with a collection of other houseplants makes a great window display. Shown here are also a Calamondin orange (Citrofortunella mitis ‘Varieta’) at left; Crimson Bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus) lower centre with the red flowers; and Rosette succulent (Aeonium arboraum ‘Atropurpureum’) at right.