Hedgerows Garden Tapestry Journal

It’s official - summer is here, although the rainy and cold weather that we’ve been having so far in Vancouver (and also in England if Chelsea coverage is anything to go by) wouldn’t let on to that fact…still, there is lots to do in the garden now, so out you go!

1. Start to sow quick maturing vegetable seeds such as lettuce and radish on a regular two-week basis for the next couple of months. This will ensure a steady supply of fresh produce that is ready on a staggered time frame, and doesn’t mature all at the same time. Remember that these quick crops are a great starter plant for children, as their speedy germination and growth can be easily monitored and appreciated before they lose interest.
   
2. Make sure that watering of newly emerging seedlings and freshly planted out flowers and vegetables is done very regularly! Don’t let them dry out too much at this delicate stage as they will not have the resources to recover, as will more established plants.
   
3. Keep a close and vigilant eye out for garden pests. A small infection caught now will be much easier to control than a rampant infestation in a few weeks time. Aphids, blackfly, greenfly, slugs, etc can multiply at an alarming rate at this time of year. Try hand picking them, squashing them between your fingers (wear gloves if you are squeamish!). Some sources suggest a strong spray with a water jet to dislodge them - I don’t like this method personally as I’m sure they’ll be back within minutes? A mild soap solution seems a much better bet. Whichever method you choose, the trick is to catch the bad bugs early and regularly.
   
4. By now almost all danger of severe frost has passed in even the coldest areas, and bedding plants can be safely put outside into the garden. Make sure they have been slowly acclimatised, though, or the sudden shock of moving them from a warm, sheltered indoor or greenhouse location straight outside can set them back quite a lot.
   
5. It’s time to start the regular schedule of mowing the lawn, and if you haven’t done so already, the blades can now be lowered to their final desired position. If you cut regularly enough so that only a tiny bit is taken off each time, you won’t have to worry about the clippings, just let them fall back down. If you wait until you are removing an inch or two, it is often tidier to collect the clippings, either at the same time with the bag attached or raking up afterwards. Remember that these clippings are great for the compost heap, or used as a mulch (after they have been laid out to turn brown).
   
6. All manner of vegetable crops can be sown outside throughout this month and will mature in time to produce a healthy harvest. Try beans, carrots, squash, peas, corn, lettuce, spinach and beets for a good assortment of fresh produce, guaranteed to taste better than anything you get from the supermarkets!
   
7. With rows of vegetables planted earlier this year, it is now time to thin them to the correct spacing. This depends on the crop grown, and will be indicated on the seed packet. Firm the soil back around the row and water gently to settle the soil. A row of plants that is too close together will never reach its full potential, and the final produce load will be smaller than if you are brave and thin out now. This is a difficult job for some people (I definitely fall into this category!!) but remember that you can almost always use these little seedlings for fresh and trendy ‘baby vegetables’. Especially delicious are tiny carrots, beets and leeks which can be eaten whole, leaves and all in fresh salads or braised/grilled lightly in a pan.
   
8. A little fertiliser sprinkled around rapidly growing shrubs and perennials will help them flower to their best. Scratch it in gently around the plants, not directly up against the stem but in a wide circle around the base. Water in if rain isn’t expected shortly.
   
9. Now is a good time to divide those spring flowering perennials such as hellebores, primulas and pulmonarias. After the flowers have faded, dig up any old, established clumps and gently divide them into smaller pieces, each with its own section of leaves and roots. Replant these sections where desired or share them with friends.
   
10. Early this month, cut back spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia. This will keep the bush in shape as it tends to get a bit loose and straggly otherwise, as well as quickly outgrowing it’s allotted space! Cutting back at this time of year rather than in late autumn will ensure a good crop of flowers next spring as the plant has time to grow the shoots which will bear blossoms next season.

Even experienced gardeners can benefit by using some seedtapes - this is a super easy and fast way to sow seeds that are the perfect space apart every time (no more thinning, which is great for people like myself that can’t bear to remove perfectly healthy seedlings just because they are too close to another perfectly heathly seedling!). 

Here’s how to do it:
1. Prepare the bed or border exactly the same way as if you were broadcast sowing seeds or setting out established seedlings.

2. Make a trench where you want the plants to grow that is the same depth as individual seeds would have been planted. Use the edge of a hoe or handle of a rake. If you want perfectly straight lines, say for vegetables, you can use a board as an edge. A string stretched taut between two end pegs works very well also. (see picture below)

3. Lay strips of seedtape down in the trench (see picture below) and cover, firming the soil gently. Water in as for individual seeds. 

The paper or plastic that holds the seeds in place will degrade over the season, there is no need to remove it at any time. This techniqe of seed sowing is very simple, great for kids (or anyone that has trouble handling small seeds or just simply doesn’t have the patience!), and there is no waste. Check out the many varieties of flowers and vegetables available this way, and save yourself many headaches this season.

All the varieties listed below are available on eSeeds.com - or by special order: just send us an email indicating the type you want and number and we will post them directly to you. Please don’t send credit card details by email, call our toll-free customer service number at 1-877-373-3376.

All these varieties can be sown in spring/early summer or again in September/October for fall and winter harvesting or earlier blooms next spring.

May and June are really the best months for many perennials, before the real heat of the summer cuts them short. Work in the garden takes on the familiar rhythm of seasons past, with some staking, potting up seedlings, preparing beds for annuals, planting out, etc etc. A busy time, but filled with promise and good things ahead…

1. Pot on young plants and rooted cuttings regularly to ensure that they don’t get potbound and slowed down in their growth. At least every 10 days to two weeks, they should be checked by gently removing them from their pot (turn it over and tap out the rootball). If you can start to see roots around the edges, it is time to put it into the next size pot. If you have left it too late and the young roots are circling around the bottom and sides of the pot, don’t despair! Just rough up the root ball a little to loosen the tight roots and place gently in the next size pot. In drastic situations, remove a bit of the overgrown roots by cutting them away.

2. Continue sowing seeds of annuals directly into the ground until the end of this month. They will grow and bloom this season. Try easy and reliable favourites such as cosmos, lavatera, nigella, california poppies and marigolds.

3. Plant some marigolds (tagetes) around the vegetable plants such as tomatoes and carrots. The strong smell of the flowers can help in keeping insects such as whitefly and carrotfly away from the crops. Besides, their cheery and bright colours add interest to this area of the garden until the fruit ripes. Nasturtiums are great for this job also, and are very attractive to aphids, and may keep them off other plants. A few annuals also help in attracting pollinating insects to improve the crop yield in a vegetable area.

4. Feed your roses now as they are just starting to grow vigorously. If you are using a dry fertiliser, scatter around the base of the plant and scratch it in gently. Water if the soil is dry to start it working.

5. Also feed your flowering bulbs as the flowers fade. If you can deadhead them, that’s great, but leave all the foliage intact (don’t bend them over, tie them up, or cut them off). The leaves are the only source of food for the bulb underground, and if they are removed before they have done their job and replenished the bulb’s nutrients, there won’t be any flowers next year. If they are unsightly where they are, it is fine to remove them intact gently with as much soil around them as possible and move them into a nursery bed or quiet corner of the garden where they can finish the season’s growth unnoticed.

6. Don’t be in a hurry to plant out summer bedding or tender annuals - bad frosts can still occur at night until the end of May. Keep them in the greenhouse or coldframe until the end of this month, or be prepared to act quickly if necessary to cover them up with fleece or other material if a cold night is forecast.

7. Now is the time to put stakes in place for all perennials that may need them! Don’t wait until they’ve already toppled over since at that time, they will look terrible propped or tied back up. Plant supports come in many shapes and sizes, from fancy willow cages and small trellises, to shiny metal canes. A simple and effective way that also blends in unobtrusively is to use pea sticks - small branches cut from any shrub or plant stuck into the ground around the plant to be supported. The new branches will grow up around and through the pea sticks and be supported gently without having to be individually tied in.

8. Lawn care - you may need a slight trim at this time, but make it a gentle one with the mower settings as high as possible. They can be lowered later as growth gets more vigourous. Lawns benefit from a raking to remove winter debris such as old leaves and moss. If they are compacted, try aerating them by spiking or even pulling out cores (make sure these are raked up and composted as they look terrible otherwise, and probably plug up the holes they were meant to open!)

9. Prune back stems of hellebores and primulas that have finished flowering. If you want the plants to set seed, leave one or two stems to finish maturing. This will tidy the area, save the plant some energy and prevent too many unwanted seedlings spreading around.

10. Harvest rhubarb now by gripping stems firmly at the base and pulling away from the crown sharply. Try to remove any flowering stems completely.

With all the Millenium hype and the lack of holidays during the first part of this Canadian year, winter has been drearily dragging on and on and on.. But, I know spring is really here when the huge magnolia trees are ready to burst. 

Magnolia stellata (Zone 4-9) has already peaked, but M. kobus (Zone 4-8), and M. soulangiana (Zone 4-9) are just getting ready to do their thing. My favorite of all though, has to be M. grandiflora the Southern or Evergreen Magnolia (Zone 6,7-9). It’s a massive tree growing as tall as 60-80′ and 30-50′ wide. It’s flowers are described as perfect, creamy white, beautifully fragrant and better than the best perfume.

Here in Zone 7 it can be successfully grown in a very sheltered microclimate that may be considered Zone 7 1/2 - 8. In the southern states like Georgia they thrive like our common firs and cedars. How lucky we are in our Zone 7 climate where many of these incredible trees share their beauty, although in a cold winter much damage can be done as we’ve seen in recent years at the botanical gardens. Shelter these babies. 

One thing I can never remember at this time of year is all the planting lore that correlates with the phases of the moon. I want to remember it - it makes so much sense and, hey if the farmers go by it, there must be something to it. Those people make their living from what comes out of the ground, they aren’t growing flowers for fun and decorating. So here it goes. 

The best time to plant annuals (flowers or vegetables) that produce their yield above the ground is during the light of the Moon; that is, between the day the Moon is new to the day it is full. This is also called the waxing of the moon.

An annual is a plant that completes its entire life cycle within one growing season, and has to be seeded each year.. A basic explanation being that at this time the sap of the plant is said to flow upward due to gravitational forces of the moon filling the plant with vitality. 

Plant biennials, perennials, bulb and root plants (potatoes, carrots and beets) during the dark of the Moon; that is, from the day after it is full to the day before it is new again. This is called the waning of the moon. Biennials include crops that are planted one season to winter over and produce crops the next. Perennials, bulb and root plants include all plants that grow from the same root year after year. It is explained in the Farmer’s Almanac that during this period, the plant is oriented toward the root and its sap is rushing downward (also a good time for transplanting).

Interestingly enough, it is believed that the Fourth Quarter (decreasing from half-full to New Moon) is the best time for cultivation, pulling weeds; and destroying pests of all kinds, turning sod, etc. Especially when the moon is one of the barren signs. Now as you read more and more on the topic, you will find all sorts of exceptions to the rule, but the above are the basics. 

Here’s a little ditty that will help you remember when to plant peas.

Sow peasen and beans in the wane of the moon
Who soweth them sooner he soweth too soone
That they with the planet may rest and arise,
And flourish with bearing most plentiful wise.

Thomas Tusser, Farmer & writer Elizabethan era 1558-1603

A very happy gardener am I - Just found a seed packet given to me last fall by gardener extraordinaire Joanne Baskerville who gardens in BC’s interior. In her garden, I spotted some very oddly colored Foxglove in a yummy yellow-apricot. Loving foxglove, but hating pink and purple which is what I’m used to seeing around, I hinted at some seed sharing. Turns out they are a hardy perennial (bonus) by the name of Digitalis lantana x tetra, ‘Johnson’s Tetra.’ A bit late, but better than never, I started these little gems indoors an await germination. I’ll keep you posted on the results.

Now, my neighbor is already on top of his weeding (he’s a rose gardener, can’t you tell!) He came by the other day to say hi (ya sure!) and started eyeing my lovely ‘bed ‘o Weeds.’ “Oh,” he says. “Here it comes,” I thought. “I see you have a lot of the exploding kind. They’re more troublesome than people think,” he says bending down to begin clearing a little area of the culprits. Once again he is correct. Wavy and Hairy Bittercress, also known as Jumping Cress are plants that produce seed whenever the weather is not too cold. We had an extremely mild winter here, so you can guess the population explosion - literally. The seed pods explode up to 80cm from the plant in all directions when touched or ripe enough, disperse potentially hundreds of new little plants. If that isn’t bad enough, when wet, the seeds become sticky and attach themselves to boots and tools spreading them around even further. Forget about Magnolias and Cherry blossoms, when the weeds show their nagging leaves, spring is really here! Indoor Design Tip: The Mini Moss Garden - Use instead of a flower arrangement on your dinner table.

1 Choose a Japanese tea bowl or similar vessel with an Asian feel.

2 Fill bowl with stones almost to the lip of the bowl and add enough water to just cover stones.

3 Cover stones with pieces of moss from shady areas of your garden or nearby park (look in the cracks of concrete that is shaded for most of the day) until you have a mini lawn.

4 From your garden cut one or two small flowers like crocus or vibrant periwinkle

5 Cut two small flowering branches like quince or cherry. Bamboo looks great too.

6 Insert your selected materials into the moss deep enough so that the materials stay in place.

Go as minimalist as you like - a little goes a long way!

Air layering is an easy technique to bring those too-tall houseplants back into a manageable size. This method basically causes the plant to produce roots high up on the stem, then the top part can be severed and replanted as a shorter, compact plant.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Choose the right candidate:
This works on many common houseplants such as dracenas, corn plants, crotons, hedera, rubber trees and schefflera. It should have a tall, lanky stem with the crown of leaves right at the top.

2. Gently wound the stem at the place where you would like the new roots to form. Make a small cut with a clean sharp knife. It works best between 6-12 inches down from the growing tip of the plant.

 
Make a small nick in the stem, prop it open with a toothpick

3. This area now needs some damp material packed around it to stimulate root growth into: try several handfuls of damp moss. Pack it tightly around the entire stem of the plant, and secure firmly with a covering of plastic held in place on top and bottom by string, tape or twist-ties.

Pack it with damp moss or coir, seal both ends firmly to keep moisture in.

4. Then continue to care for the plant as usual, maybe not giving it too much direct sun as that may dry out the moss. Check to see that it remains damp, but not so soggy as to rot the stem.

5. Be patient - air layering is not a quick process! It can take several months for new roots to develop strongly and become visible through the plastic wrap.

6. When there is strong root growth easily visible, you may cut the plant off just below the plastic-encased root ball, and then pot it up in fresh compost and sand mixed together. Firm it in and stake if necessary until it has become established .

    
Cut off top when well rooted, and then pot up

7. With the remaining stem, you might want to try taking stem cuttings, and really increasing your stock of houseplants (these can be donated to friends, local schools or hospitals, or to a charity plant sale). Cut the stem into pieces several inches long, making sure to note which end is up (it won’t work if you stick them in upside down). Put them into sharply draining mix of sand and soil, and keep moist. You can put several into a shallow pan and cover the entire pan with plastic to create a mini greenhouse. With luck, most of the stem pieces will root, and can then potted up separately to form new plants.

Once you’ve mastered the technique, you can air-layer many shrubs outside as well as your houseplants - this works well with expensive plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, crab apples, holly bushes and those fragrant witch hazels. David demonstrated the technique on Canadian Gardener on July 25/98, and these two stills illustrate the process on a magnolia tree:

Packing moss around the wound

Sealed in plastic wrap to keep moist

Don’t start until later though - late spring to midsummer works best for outside shrubs. You will have to be even more patient though, as rooting can take one or maybe two years in some cases, but then, what’s the hurry? You’ll have the satisfaction of being able to propagate many plants yourself.

There are already many signs of the approaching spring season - make sure you take the time to notice them now, while you are out in the garden - early spring bulbs such as aconites, snowdrops, crocus, iris reticulata will already be peeking through, the lovely scented winter jasmine and witch hazel, and later this month, magnolias and forsythia bloom in this area and the fat buds are almost ready to go!

1. General Clean-up of Beds
February is probably the best time of year for a really thorough garden clean up. Carefully go through all your beds and borders and remove any unwanted plants (weeds or more desirables). Put the weeds on the compost heap, and either move the others to a better location, or share them with your friends. Remove all old vegetation that has died back before it starts to rot, this includes any remaining stems of perennials, piles of leaves, etc.

2. Prune and tidy perennials
Cut back all of last years growth on herbaceous perennials this month, before fresh new growth makes this job much harder and more time-consuming. In milder areas such as the West Coast of Canada and the south of England, this can be done immediately. In cooler areas, wait until the end of this month, so that the old growth can provide that last bit of extra protection from the elements.

3. Winter Mulching
Now that the borders are relatively clear, it is an excellent time to add a thick layer of mulch and/or compost material to them. Carefully sprinkle this material around the plants, taking care not to bury the crowns of perennials too deeply, only add a thin layer over the tops. Several inches spread evenly works best. If you are really careful, the material can be gently forked into the top few inches of the soil, or you can just leave it and it will work its way down during the next few months all by itself.

4.Wildlife in the Garden
Overwintering pests can be removed if you find them now - groups of snails will often hide together in sheltered corners of the garden. Choose your favourite disposal method (try to do better than throwing them over your fence into your neighbours garden - he’ll probably be doing the same thing to you anyway, so you’ll both just end up with a fresh set!). Do be careful not to disturb friendly animals hibernating in these quiet corners, such as hedgehogs in Europe, and racoons in North America. Keep the bird feeders clean and well-stocked, and don’t forget their water sources.

5. Prune deciduous hedges and shrubs
Late winter is an excellent time to rejuvenate deciduous shrubs and hedges with some careful pruning. Remove overly thick branches to let in light and air and encourage fresh, strong growth from the base in spring. Prune for shape as desired, since the outline of the bush is clearly visible.

6. Clean Greenhouses and Cold Frames
Thoroughly scrub out and wash greenhouses and cold frames to prepare them for the early seedlings and cutting soon to be filling them. By keeping them scrupulously clean, you cut down greatly on disease and pests of all manners. Sweep out the corners and wash the glass to let in as much light as possible.

7. Move Snowdrops “in the green”
Much ado is made about this mysterious practice of moving snowdrops in the green, but I think it really boils down to convenience - do it now while you can see them clearly and know where they are!! Lift blooming clumps carefully with a spade and relocate around the garden to spread. If you do not wish them to self-seed, remember to deadhead them once their flowers are over, though why anyone wouldn’t want more of these lovely flowers is beyond me! A real treat is to put a few into a nice container and bring indoors to enjoy - they have a delicate honey-like fragrance that isn’t usually noticeable outside but you can enjoy it on your dining room table or desk. If this takes too long, they also last a surprisingly long time as cut flowers, and make delightful tiny bouquets - put them in a shooter glass or other small container for best effect.

8. Plant bare-root shrubs
Fruit trees, roses and soft fruit can all be planted now. Soak them for a few hours in tepid water if they look really dried out. Plant to the correct level, just above the base of the canes, and add a thick mulch around to protect it from the last cold days and prevent drying out. They should be off to a good start shortly, and provide fruit and flowers in the first year.

9. Layer Rhodos
Some shrubs such as rhododendrons and azaleas respond well to layering and this is an inexpensive way to increase your stock of these expensive plants. Pull downwards a low-growing branch and peg it to the soil. A slight wound on the bottom will encourage rooting. Leave the peg and branch in place until next year, when it can be severed from the parent plant and moved on.

10. Order Seeds
Make sure to get the seed varieties you need for your garden soon - many new or really desirable ones will already be sold out for the season, but no matter, there are lots of lovely plants left. Beginner gardeners should try simple seeds first to gain experience and confidence in the process, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with these basic garden staples!! Almost completely failsafe are annuals such as cosmos, lavatera, baby’s breath, bachelor buttons, sweet alyssum and many more. No matter how good a gardener you are, and how long you’ve been at it, no garden is really complete without these simple comfortable old friends cheering you up.

“Don’t be in a Hurry with your Seeds!” by David Tarrant

February is often the month when we get carried away and start to sow annual seeds too early for the season ahead. The key factor to think about when sowing seeds is to count how many weeks it will be before it is safe to plant them outside. In climates such as ours on the west coast this is usually around the third week of May, while in cooler areas it may not be until the first week of June.

Usually twelve to fourteen weeks growing time is just right for the average bedding plant. However, it must be stressed that having the correct conditions is vital for success. All seedlings respond well to being sown in a temperature around 18-20 Celsius. But once germinated, they need much cooler temperatures: around 12 by day and down to 8 or 10 degrees at night. During the day, supplemental light for thirteen hours is a great help. It can be as simple as two fluorescent tubes, one warm white and the other cool white, mounted in a moveable holder so that they can be adjusted to be 30 to 40 cm from the seedlings - this will prevent stretched growth. Good air circulation is essential at all times to prevent fungus attacks and damping off.

Rather than being too hasty to sow seeds this month, concentrate on preparing a room - either a spare room or in your basement. Better yet, get your cool greenhouse ready for a mass sowing next month.

January Garden Action Items:

As long as you aren’t buried under three feet of snow, there is always a lot of work to do in the garden, so bundle up warmly, put on your wellies and out you go…

1. Hardwood Cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings of your favourite shrubs to increase your stock - just think, they will make great Christmas presents for your friends next year! Follow the detailed instructions on the page “Hardwood Cuttings”

2. Houseplant Care:
Water houseplants sparingly - they are not usually growing as vigorously as during the other seasons and will not require as much water. Do try to keep up the humidity around them though, as indoor winter air can be extremely dry. Stand shallow bowls of warm water around your pots, or stand them on a large plant tray full of pebbles, making sure to keep the water level just below the pot bottom so water isn’t wicked up into the pot and overwaters your plants. Give your houseplants as much strong bright light as possible, but keep them away from cold draughts, and radiators. Never leave a plant on a windowsill between the glass and closed curtains or blinds, it is much too cold. Move them away from the windows at night, and back in the morning.

3. Winter Pruning of Trees and Shrubs:
With the tree framework clearly visible during this time of year, it is much easier to see what pruning is necessary, if any. Remove any damaged or diseased branches first, no matter where they are on a plant, as it would be unhealthy to leave them. Then start to remove more selectively any crossing branches, or any that are badly placed, or going where you don’t want them. Try to have an open, clear centre on a tree, with the main branches growing in an attractive shape outwards. This lets in light and air into the centre of the tree and prevents stale, stagnant air which may harbour disease. Be sure to use the right tool for the job - pruners or a sharp knife for small branches only; loppers and saws where necessary to get a clean, sharp cut.

4. Snow Removal
In areas of significant snowfall (or the wet, heavy type of snow we get in milder areas), it is always a good idea to walk around the garden and where possible, remove any snow from vulnerable plants such as specimen trees and shrubs and the tops of hedges. This prevents branches being weighed down and possibly broken or damaged by the weight of the snow.

5. Clean up and Preparation
Thoroughly clean cold frames and cloches not in use so they will be ready for those early seeds and cuttings. Use hot, soapy water and a good scrub brush and wash both inside and outside of all surfaces to remove grime and any overwintering pests.

6. Soil and Bed Preparation
Put down a layer of compost and/or leaf mould over your borders. Lightly work it in with a fork, being extremely careful around the surface crowns of perennials, and emerging shoots of spring bulbs. You don’t have to dig around too much, the rain and worms will all help to mix the layers together through the year.

7. Moving Shrubs.
This is a good time to move any shrub or small tree that is growing in the wrong spot, or one that has outgrown it’s current position. Prepare the new planting hole well, digging some compost into a hole wider and deeper than the rootball of the plant to be moved. Carefully move the plant, taking care to disturb the soil around the roots as little as possible and place in the new spot at the same depth as before. Firm the soil and stake the tree if necessary. Water in well, and mulch with bark or more compost. If the shrub is very large, prune it back a little to help the roots support it.

8. Plant New Shrubs:
Bare root shrubs such as roses can be planted now, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid. Follow the directions above for moving shrubs.

9. Bring the Garden Indoors:
Bring pots of spring flowering bulbs indoors now for early blooms. Start to water them a little more and enjoy early snowdrops, daffodils, hyacinths, and more. Another great thing to do is cut some branches from early spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, cherry, witch hazel, etc to bring indoors. I enjoy doing this even with shrubs that don’t flower, as the fresh new leaves are so beautiful and delicate in themselves. Simply put them in a cool, bright area in a large heavy vase of water, and pretend it is already spring!

10. Order Your Seeds Early
It is time now to order your seed varieties for the upcoming season, especially the new or “hot” varieties for the year, as these sell out very quickly. You should have received a few seed catalogues already, more are probably on their way right now. Always make a point to try at least one or two new ones a year, maybe not the latest and greatest of anything, just something you haven’t got in your garden and always wanted. Check out eSeeds for all your favourite brands, all in one place for convenience and security - we will be adding new varieites non-stop for the next few months, so come back often.