Hedgerows Garden Tapestry Journal

Summer Book Review:
“Perennials for British Columbia” 
by Alison Beck & Marianne Binetti.

Lone Pine Publishing
ISBN 1-55105-258-X
Softcover. 352 pages.
$21.95 CAD Suggested Retail Price

This new book from Lone Pine Publishing is the Canadian (British Columbia to be precise) edition of the gardening guide ‘Perennials for Washington and Oregon’, launched at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show in Seattle, February 2000. The small, soft cover book (a handy size to take with you to the local nursery) describes 95 species, with several varieties, hybrids and cultivars of each, bringing the total number of plants covered to 434. With over 500 colour photographs for illustration, and the basic facts about each species clearly listed (flower colour, bloom season, height, hardiness, light requirements, soil conditions), this is an excellent beginner to intermediate gardeners guide to a wide selection of appropriate plants for this particular area.

The book gets off to a good start with an Introduction that explains the different gardening regions and zones within this vast province. Anyone who lives in B.C. clearly knows the difference between gardening on the wet, warm West Coast and the dry, desert-like interior with its extremes of temperatures. B.C. actually has areas that correspond to nine main temperature zones as defined by Agriculture Canada, and yes, a Zone map is presented (it stops at Prince Rupert, leaving the top 1/3 of the province blank, claiming no data available). It continues on to explain how different 5 degrees F (-15 degrees C) can be with or without reliable snow cover, an important point for people that worship zone maps!

The Introduction then proceeds to describe the basics of perennial gardening, with information on what a perennial is, how to design a space taking into consideration different plant textures and shapes as well as flowers and how to determine the different growing areas within your garden space. The section on preparing the garden briefly covers composting, how to choose a good specimen at a nursery and then how to plant it once you get it home. The information is simple, basic and to the point, and is nicely illustrated with photographs.

The book then discusses perennial care, covering weeding, mulching, deadheading, pruning, staking, watering and fertilizing. All the basics are explained in simple language that any beginner can easily understand and follow, to get great results. The section on propagation outlines seed preparation and sowing, taking cuttings, both root and shoot, and also plant division. Everyone should have a go at propagation for its challenges and rewards - lots of plants at no additional cost (or very little as in the case of seed packets - the book doesn’t cover seed saving) - and this section should give you the confidence needed to jump in and have fun and success.

Finally, still in the Introduction (it goes for 60 info-packed pages!), there is a section on common pests and problems, including identification and control.

With the basics covered, the bulk of the book is an alphabetical (by common name) description of 95 species. Common and latin names are listed which is nice, since this is the only way you can be sure you are talking about the same plant as someone else. Descriptions and a couple of photos illustrate the plants features, how and where it can be used, where it should be planted. There is a list of recommended varieties to look and ask for. A handy Quick Reference Chart (cross references common names with flower colour, height, bloom period, hardiness, light and soil conditions )at the end of the book will help plan and design your new perennial beds. A brief Glossary explains the terms used throughout the book.

The authors are experienced gardeners, as well as having wide knowledge of related fields. Marianne Binetti has a degree in Horticulture from Washington State University and extensive experience in the nursery and retail florist trade. She now lectures to garden groups, writes for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and other newspapers across the state as well as national magazines. Alison Beck has a diploma in Horticultural Technology as well as a degree in Creative Writing and Classical Studies, and has been gardening since childhood.

This book is an excellent starting point for anyone that doesn’t have much experience with perennials, or for more experienced gardeners that are looking for a good selection of plants for the particular growing conditions of British Columbia and similar climates (it would work well for most areas of England for example). The simple, straightforward text is helpful and covers the basics nicely. The full-colour photos are of good quality and illustrate the plants features very well. All in all, a great little book to expand your gardening repertoire. Look for it in local bookshops or order toll-free direct from Lone Pine Publishing at 800-661-9017.

It’s official - summer is here, although the rainy and cold weather that we’ve been having so far in Vancouver (and also in England if Chelsea coverage is anything to go by) wouldn’t let on to that fact…still, there is lots to do in the garden now, so out you go!

1. Start to sow quick maturing vegetable seeds such as lettuce and radish on a regular two-week basis for the next couple of months. This will ensure a steady supply of fresh produce that is ready on a staggered time frame, and doesn’t mature all at the same time. Remember that these quick crops are a great starter plant for children, as their speedy germination and growth can be easily monitored and appreciated before they lose interest.
   
2. Make sure that watering of newly emerging seedlings and freshly planted out flowers and vegetables is done very regularly! Don’t let them dry out too much at this delicate stage as they will not have the resources to recover, as will more established plants.
   
3. Keep a close and vigilant eye out for garden pests. A small infection caught now will be much easier to control than a rampant infestation in a few weeks time. Aphids, blackfly, greenfly, slugs, etc can multiply at an alarming rate at this time of year. Try hand picking them, squashing them between your fingers (wear gloves if you are squeamish!). Some sources suggest a strong spray with a water jet to dislodge them - I don’t like this method personally as I’m sure they’ll be back within minutes? A mild soap solution seems a much better bet. Whichever method you choose, the trick is to catch the bad bugs early and regularly.
   
4. By now almost all danger of severe frost has passed in even the coldest areas, and bedding plants can be safely put outside into the garden. Make sure they have been slowly acclimatised, though, or the sudden shock of moving them from a warm, sheltered indoor or greenhouse location straight outside can set them back quite a lot.
   
5. It’s time to start the regular schedule of mowing the lawn, and if you haven’t done so already, the blades can now be lowered to their final desired position. If you cut regularly enough so that only a tiny bit is taken off each time, you won’t have to worry about the clippings, just let them fall back down. If you wait until you are removing an inch or two, it is often tidier to collect the clippings, either at the same time with the bag attached or raking up afterwards. Remember that these clippings are great for the compost heap, or used as a mulch (after they have been laid out to turn brown).
   
6. All manner of vegetable crops can be sown outside throughout this month and will mature in time to produce a healthy harvest. Try beans, carrots, squash, peas, corn, lettuce, spinach and beets for a good assortment of fresh produce, guaranteed to taste better than anything you get from the supermarkets!
   
7. With rows of vegetables planted earlier this year, it is now time to thin them to the correct spacing. This depends on the crop grown, and will be indicated on the seed packet. Firm the soil back around the row and water gently to settle the soil. A row of plants that is too close together will never reach its full potential, and the final produce load will be smaller than if you are brave and thin out now. This is a difficult job for some people (I definitely fall into this category!!) but remember that you can almost always use these little seedlings for fresh and trendy ‘baby vegetables’. Especially delicious are tiny carrots, beets and leeks which can be eaten whole, leaves and all in fresh salads or braised/grilled lightly in a pan.
   
8. A little fertiliser sprinkled around rapidly growing shrubs and perennials will help them flower to their best. Scratch it in gently around the plants, not directly up against the stem but in a wide circle around the base. Water in if rain isn’t expected shortly.
   
9. Now is a good time to divide those spring flowering perennials such as hellebores, primulas and pulmonarias. After the flowers have faded, dig up any old, established clumps and gently divide them into smaller pieces, each with its own section of leaves and roots. Replant these sections where desired or share them with friends.
   
10. Early this month, cut back spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia. This will keep the bush in shape as it tends to get a bit loose and straggly otherwise, as well as quickly outgrowing it’s allotted space! Cutting back at this time of year rather than in late autumn will ensure a good crop of flowers next spring as the plant has time to grow the shoots which will bear blossoms next season.

Even experienced gardeners can benefit by using some seedtapes - this is a super easy and fast way to sow seeds that are the perfect space apart every time (no more thinning, which is great for people like myself that can’t bear to remove perfectly healthy seedlings just because they are too close to another perfectly heathly seedling!). 

Here’s how to do it:
1. Prepare the bed or border exactly the same way as if you were broadcast sowing seeds or setting out established seedlings.

2. Make a trench where you want the plants to grow that is the same depth as individual seeds would have been planted. Use the edge of a hoe or handle of a rake. If you want perfectly straight lines, say for vegetables, you can use a board as an edge. A string stretched taut between two end pegs works very well also. (see picture below)

3. Lay strips of seedtape down in the trench (see picture below) and cover, firming the soil gently. Water in as for individual seeds. 

The paper or plastic that holds the seeds in place will degrade over the season, there is no need to remove it at any time. This techniqe of seed sowing is very simple, great for kids (or anyone that has trouble handling small seeds or just simply doesn’t have the patience!), and there is no waste. Check out the many varieties of flowers and vegetables available this way, and save yourself many headaches this season.

All the varieties listed below are available on eSeeds.com - or by special order: just send us an email indicating the type you want and number and we will post them directly to you. Please don’t send credit card details by email, call our toll-free customer service number at 1-877-373-3376.

All these varieties can be sown in spring/early summer or again in September/October for fall and winter harvesting or earlier blooms next spring.

Air layering is an easy technique to bring those too-tall houseplants back into a manageable size. This method basically causes the plant to produce roots high up on the stem, then the top part can be severed and replanted as a shorter, compact plant.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Choose the right candidate:
This works on many common houseplants such as dracenas, corn plants, crotons, hedera, rubber trees and schefflera. It should have a tall, lanky stem with the crown of leaves right at the top.

2. Gently wound the stem at the place where you would like the new roots to form. Make a small cut with a clean sharp knife. It works best between 6-12 inches down from the growing tip of the plant.

 
Make a small nick in the stem, prop it open with a toothpick

3. This area now needs some damp material packed around it to stimulate root growth into: try several handfuls of damp moss. Pack it tightly around the entire stem of the plant, and secure firmly with a covering of plastic held in place on top and bottom by string, tape or twist-ties.

Pack it with damp moss or coir, seal both ends firmly to keep moisture in.

4. Then continue to care for the plant as usual, maybe not giving it too much direct sun as that may dry out the moss. Check to see that it remains damp, but not so soggy as to rot the stem.

5. Be patient - air layering is not a quick process! It can take several months for new roots to develop strongly and become visible through the plastic wrap.

6. When there is strong root growth easily visible, you may cut the plant off just below the plastic-encased root ball, and then pot it up in fresh compost and sand mixed together. Firm it in and stake if necessary until it has become established .

    
Cut off top when well rooted, and then pot up

7. With the remaining stem, you might want to try taking stem cuttings, and really increasing your stock of houseplants (these can be donated to friends, local schools or hospitals, or to a charity plant sale). Cut the stem into pieces several inches long, making sure to note which end is up (it won’t work if you stick them in upside down). Put them into sharply draining mix of sand and soil, and keep moist. You can put several into a shallow pan and cover the entire pan with plastic to create a mini greenhouse. With luck, most of the stem pieces will root, and can then potted up separately to form new plants.

Once you’ve mastered the technique, you can air-layer many shrubs outside as well as your houseplants - this works well with expensive plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, crab apples, holly bushes and those fragrant witch hazels. David demonstrated the technique on Canadian Gardener on July 25/98, and these two stills illustrate the process on a magnolia tree:

Packing moss around the wound

Sealed in plastic wrap to keep moist

Don’t start until later though - late spring to midsummer works best for outside shrubs. You will have to be even more patient though, as rooting can take one or maybe two years in some cases, but then, what’s the hurry? You’ll have the satisfaction of being able to propagate many plants yourself.

“Don’t be in a Hurry with your Seeds!” by David Tarrant

February is often the month when we get carried away and start to sow annual seeds too early for the season ahead. The key factor to think about when sowing seeds is to count how many weeks it will be before it is safe to plant them outside. In climates such as ours on the west coast this is usually around the third week of May, while in cooler areas it may not be until the first week of June.

Usually twelve to fourteen weeks growing time is just right for the average bedding plant. However, it must be stressed that having the correct conditions is vital for success. All seedlings respond well to being sown in a temperature around 18-20 Celsius. But once germinated, they need much cooler temperatures: around 12 by day and down to 8 or 10 degrees at night. During the day, supplemental light for thirteen hours is a great help. It can be as simple as two fluorescent tubes, one warm white and the other cool white, mounted in a moveable holder so that they can be adjusted to be 30 to 40 cm from the seedlings - this will prevent stretched growth. Good air circulation is essential at all times to prevent fungus attacks and damping off.

Rather than being too hasty to sow seeds this month, concentrate on preparing a room - either a spare room or in your basement. Better yet, get your cool greenhouse ready for a mass sowing next month.

“Late December Decisions” by ???

As I sit writing this journal entry to close to the dreaded Y2K, I stop and think we may not have to worry about pruning or seed ordering in a few days. If things collapse next week I can be sure of one thing - the bamboo jungle in front of my house is sure to survive…

It’s rather pleasant these days on the Wetcoast, plantwise, that is. The walk up to the video store offers an education in winter flowering plants as well as hedging of which I am in desperate need.

First there is the incredible Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum). Its name tells all. Florum meaning flowers or flowering and nudi, for naked. The zone 6-10 plant has long leafless stems with beautiful yellow flowers. Paler yellow than forsythia and a great sight in late December and January when there’s not too much happening out there. Placed perfectly on the top of a 10 ft high concrete bank, the flowering stems which can trail up to 12′-15′ hide much of the concrete wall. Winter Jasmine is so vigorous, I don’t feel guilty at all clipping branches throughout the winter for indoor flowers.

Jasmine nudiflorum flowers on bare stems before the leaves, thus the name ‘nudiflorum’.

You can grow this easily by cuttings without rooting hormones at anytime of year. Plant in most any soil - it will do quite well in poor soils and does not need to be babied with lots of water. Full sun or shade (less flowers in the shade).

Past the Winter Jasmine, there are a few houses with some very choice plantings. In particular, a very handsome Privet hedge. I believe it is California Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) hardy in zones 6-10. It must be about 12′ high in a planting about 20′ long and quite narrow in spread, about 5′, from diligent pruning I would expect. It does the job that’s for sure. The hedge is a perfect screen from the neighbors next door, even in the winter because of its semi-evergreen (evergreen this year) status. All Privets grow fast so the only downfall is the maintenance factor. Pruning is essential if you want this specimen as a hedge, as well as a part-shade to sunny location.

   
Try alternating holly varieties for a beautiful, festive hedge

Another hedge that nearly got me into a car accident was a brilliant planting of Holly (Ilex crenata). Am I the only one who looks at the hedges and trees more than the road? This hazardous 15′ hedge was very dense with two different varieties planted alternately the whole length of the house. One was a variegated variety with lots of creamy yellow leaf and the other was a very dark lustrous green with berries sprinkled here and there. It was beautiful. Darned if I know the varieties, there was no parking nearby. Ilex is a slow grower in zones 5-7 with some cultivars performing adequately in zone 8, but that’s getting a bit warm for these evergreens.

My ongoing hedge stress…The Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ bushes planted a few months ago are doing fine. They actually have a small raceme of yellow flowers this year but haven’t budged in height yet. Perhaps they will shoot up in the spring. Unfortunately, they are slow growing shrubs. Slow, as in 2-3′ over 3 years!

What to do, what to do. May try some privet, but really have my eyes on a yellow flowering Camellia…Or maybe some just some boring old Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus). Can you tell I’m a Libra?

by Linda D. Harris, Horticulturist, Ferry-Morse Seed Company

Winter covers the ground everywhere north of Zone 8. Right now your next garden is still a dream. Begin now to make the dream real.

Start planning on paper. Then begin thinking about which seeds to start for the next garden’s flowers, herbs and vegetables indoors. Growing plants from seed is infinitely more satisfying than setting out plants you’ve purchased. Try it and see if you don’t agree.

Organize Your Supplies

You’ll need a plant light or a large, south-facing window; seed-starting pots and trays; seed-starting medium; plastic labels; a pencil or dibble; and a mister bottle. These are the basics. You can also get fancy with a light timer, a copper watering can with a rose attachment, wrought-iron stands, humidifiers, soil thermometers, and the like. But those are optional.

Light

I’ve had the best seedling results with a normal fluorescent shop light hung from chains in the basement. Or use a tabletop plant light with cool-white fluorescent tubes.The critical thing is to provide light close to the tops of the plants. By this, I mean 6 to 8 inches above the top leaves. As plants grow, lights have to move up, too. The other requirement is to leave the lights on 12 to 18 hours per day, then off at night. This simulates nature’s “day” and produces the best germination and early growth.

Later I use my shop lights to grow later-started seedlings, and all year round I grow blooming and green plants underneath. I always have a “green spot” to cheer my eye and my soul.

If you are using a large, south-facing window, get the plants right IN the window, as close as possible to the glass, and turn them daily. Plants grown with nature’s light may dry out faster and have the disadvantage of occasionally being a little spindly.

Seed-Starting Medium

Please use a sterile seed starting medium, available in bags so marked, for starting your seeds. Starting with sterile medium assures you of the best environment for seedlings. Also use new plastic or peat pots or trays. Please don’t use ones from before; there could be diseases present.

Temperature

To germinate, seeds need soil which is moist and ranging between 65 to 70 degrees F. Some like it warmer. This is the SOIL temperature I’m talking about. I like to put my seed trays up on the refrigerator until I see the first seedling popping through. This “bottom heat” is especially good for impatiens and pepper seeds.Once the seeds have germinated and they are under the lights, the AIR temperature should be 70 to 75 degrees F. during the day or cooler, and 60 to 65 degrees F. at night. This fluctuating temperature is very important to plant growth. First, it mimics nature. During the day when the lights are on, the small plants are producing food and new cells. The fluorescent light keeps them from getting too warm. When air temperatures are too high, the growth will be too fast, which makes the cell walls thinner and the plants weak. That’s why they often flop over and cause your heart to despair. But with cooler night temperatures and a cycle of dark, the plants have a normal rest cycle which strengthens their cell growth.

My house naturally fluctuates in temperature during the winter, as I’m sure yours does. At night, the thermostat is turned lower for the comfort of the humans and pets, and is perfect for plants as well.

Water

The key to watering seedlings is “evenly moist”. That means an equal amount of water all the way through the medium.Some people like to water from the bottom when plants are very small, allowing pots or trays to soak up water for an hour or so, then taking the water source away.You can also water from the top, using a very gentle stream. The best time to water is when the surface of the medium begins to lighten (indicating it is beginning to dry out). Water during the daylight cycle so leaves can dry off well before dark sets in. This will help prevent mildew problems.

Remember to check your seedlings daily and don’t let them dry out. But don’t let them stay too wet, either. When plants are very small, they don’t use as much water as they will later when their roots develop and grow.

Flowers to Start Indoors

Some annual flowers need a headstart indoors because they are either slow to germinate or slow-growing to the transplant stage.These annual seeds do best if started indoors: coleus, impatiens, flowering kale, lobelia, melampodium, pansy, petunia, pinks, verbena, and vinca (periwinkle).

        
Petunias, coleus, verbena, pansies

Likewise some perennials, if started early indoors, may bloom the first year in the garden. Another benefit of starting some perennials indoors is to set out a sturdy, started plant for best growth and performance.

Perennial seeds for indoor starting include columbine, delphinium, English daisy, moss verbena, ornamental fountain grass, pinks, salvia, veronica and viola.

Vegetables to Start Indoors

Eggplant, onion, and pepper seeds need some time (10 to 12 weeks) to develop indoors, and that’s why I’ve listed them first. Tomatoes also need a headstart, but please don’t start them until about March. Only 6 to 8 weeks are required for tomato plants growing indoors. Many people get impatient and start tomatoes too early, ending up with large, floppy, hungry plants which may not transplant as well as smaller ones do.

Herbs to Start Indoors

These herb seeds are good candidates for a bit of a headstart: catmint, catnip, clary, horehound, lavender, lemon balm, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme.Soak parsley seed in room-temperature water for several hours before planting to give it a little boost.

Choosing Varieties

There are so many varieties of flowers and vegetables to choose from, it can be confusing. Here are some guidelines to refer to before you choose. Flowers: You’ll want to think about where you’ll be planting them as you select the variety. Check the height of the plant. For massed plantings, you may want to grow a single color for greatest impact. For vegetables, check the days to maturity/harvest. Some varieties are earlier than others and this can be an important factor in what you grow for food. And if a variety has been deemed an “All-America Winner” or a “Fleuroselect Winner”, you know already that it will perform well for you because it has been tested extensively and judged to be superior.

Ferry Morse Seed Company is an eSeeds Business Partner.