Hedgerows Garden Tapestry Journal

Air layering is an easy technique to bring those too-tall houseplants back into a manageable size. This method basically causes the plant to produce roots high up on the stem, then the top part can be severed and replanted as a shorter, compact plant.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Choose the right candidate:
This works on many common houseplants such as dracenas, corn plants, crotons, hedera, rubber trees and schefflera. It should have a tall, lanky stem with the crown of leaves right at the top.

2. Gently wound the stem at the place where you would like the new roots to form. Make a small cut with a clean sharp knife. It works best between 6-12 inches down from the growing tip of the plant.

 
Make a small nick in the stem, prop it open with a toothpick

3. This area now needs some damp material packed around it to stimulate root growth into: try several handfuls of damp moss. Pack it tightly around the entire stem of the plant, and secure firmly with a covering of plastic held in place on top and bottom by string, tape or twist-ties.

Pack it with damp moss or coir, seal both ends firmly to keep moisture in.

4. Then continue to care for the plant as usual, maybe not giving it too much direct sun as that may dry out the moss. Check to see that it remains damp, but not so soggy as to rot the stem.

5. Be patient - air layering is not a quick process! It can take several months for new roots to develop strongly and become visible through the plastic wrap.

6. When there is strong root growth easily visible, you may cut the plant off just below the plastic-encased root ball, and then pot it up in fresh compost and sand mixed together. Firm it in and stake if necessary until it has become established .

    
Cut off top when well rooted, and then pot up

7. With the remaining stem, you might want to try taking stem cuttings, and really increasing your stock of houseplants (these can be donated to friends, local schools or hospitals, or to a charity plant sale). Cut the stem into pieces several inches long, making sure to note which end is up (it won’t work if you stick them in upside down). Put them into sharply draining mix of sand and soil, and keep moist. You can put several into a shallow pan and cover the entire pan with plastic to create a mini greenhouse. With luck, most of the stem pieces will root, and can then potted up separately to form new plants.

Once you’ve mastered the technique, you can air-layer many shrubs outside as well as your houseplants - this works well with expensive plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, crab apples, holly bushes and those fragrant witch hazels. David demonstrated the technique on Canadian Gardener on July 25/98, and these two stills illustrate the process on a magnolia tree:

Packing moss around the wound

Sealed in plastic wrap to keep moist

Don’t start until later though - late spring to midsummer works best for outside shrubs. You will have to be even more patient though, as rooting can take one or maybe two years in some cases, but then, what’s the hurry? You’ll have the satisfaction of being able to propagate many plants yourself.

There are already many signs of the approaching spring season - make sure you take the time to notice them now, while you are out in the garden - early spring bulbs such as aconites, snowdrops, crocus, iris reticulata will already be peeking through, the lovely scented winter jasmine and witch hazel, and later this month, magnolias and forsythia bloom in this area and the fat buds are almost ready to go!

1. General Clean-up of Beds
February is probably the best time of year for a really thorough garden clean up. Carefully go through all your beds and borders and remove any unwanted plants (weeds or more desirables). Put the weeds on the compost heap, and either move the others to a better location, or share them with your friends. Remove all old vegetation that has died back before it starts to rot, this includes any remaining stems of perennials, piles of leaves, etc.

2. Prune and tidy perennials
Cut back all of last years growth on herbaceous perennials this month, before fresh new growth makes this job much harder and more time-consuming. In milder areas such as the West Coast of Canada and the south of England, this can be done immediately. In cooler areas, wait until the end of this month, so that the old growth can provide that last bit of extra protection from the elements.

3. Winter Mulching
Now that the borders are relatively clear, it is an excellent time to add a thick layer of mulch and/or compost material to them. Carefully sprinkle this material around the plants, taking care not to bury the crowns of perennials too deeply, only add a thin layer over the tops. Several inches spread evenly works best. If you are really careful, the material can be gently forked into the top few inches of the soil, or you can just leave it and it will work its way down during the next few months all by itself.

4.Wildlife in the Garden
Overwintering pests can be removed if you find them now - groups of snails will often hide together in sheltered corners of the garden. Choose your favourite disposal method (try to do better than throwing them over your fence into your neighbours garden - he’ll probably be doing the same thing to you anyway, so you’ll both just end up with a fresh set!). Do be careful not to disturb friendly animals hibernating in these quiet corners, such as hedgehogs in Europe, and racoons in North America. Keep the bird feeders clean and well-stocked, and don’t forget their water sources.

5. Prune deciduous hedges and shrubs
Late winter is an excellent time to rejuvenate deciduous shrubs and hedges with some careful pruning. Remove overly thick branches to let in light and air and encourage fresh, strong growth from the base in spring. Prune for shape as desired, since the outline of the bush is clearly visible.

6. Clean Greenhouses and Cold Frames
Thoroughly scrub out and wash greenhouses and cold frames to prepare them for the early seedlings and cutting soon to be filling them. By keeping them scrupulously clean, you cut down greatly on disease and pests of all manners. Sweep out the corners and wash the glass to let in as much light as possible.

7. Move Snowdrops “in the green”
Much ado is made about this mysterious practice of moving snowdrops in the green, but I think it really boils down to convenience - do it now while you can see them clearly and know where they are!! Lift blooming clumps carefully with a spade and relocate around the garden to spread. If you do not wish them to self-seed, remember to deadhead them once their flowers are over, though why anyone wouldn’t want more of these lovely flowers is beyond me! A real treat is to put a few into a nice container and bring indoors to enjoy - they have a delicate honey-like fragrance that isn’t usually noticeable outside but you can enjoy it on your dining room table or desk. If this takes too long, they also last a surprisingly long time as cut flowers, and make delightful tiny bouquets - put them in a shooter glass or other small container for best effect.

8. Plant bare-root shrubs
Fruit trees, roses and soft fruit can all be planted now. Soak them for a few hours in tepid water if they look really dried out. Plant to the correct level, just above the base of the canes, and add a thick mulch around to protect it from the last cold days and prevent drying out. They should be off to a good start shortly, and provide fruit and flowers in the first year.

9. Layer Rhodos
Some shrubs such as rhododendrons and azaleas respond well to layering and this is an inexpensive way to increase your stock of these expensive plants. Pull downwards a low-growing branch and peg it to the soil. A slight wound on the bottom will encourage rooting. Leave the peg and branch in place until next year, when it can be severed from the parent plant and moved on.

10. Order Seeds
Make sure to get the seed varieties you need for your garden soon - many new or really desirable ones will already be sold out for the season, but no matter, there are lots of lovely plants left. Beginner gardeners should try simple seeds first to gain experience and confidence in the process, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with these basic garden staples!! Almost completely failsafe are annuals such as cosmos, lavatera, baby’s breath, bachelor buttons, sweet alyssum and many more. No matter how good a gardener you are, and how long you’ve been at it, no garden is really complete without these simple comfortable old friends cheering you up.

by Sharon Hanna

Everyone’s favourite “BI” - the ladybird

For years, well-meaning gardeners routinely maimed, swatted, sprayed and squished every bug they could get their hands on. However careful observation of nature and the move to organic practices have shown that encouraging “good” bugs, or beneficial insects (the politically correct name) is one way to give Mother Nature a hand. She was doing a fine job, however the use of pesticides, combined with overzealous tidiness resulted in loss of normal bio-diversity in our gardens.

Just as when you take antibiotics, and your doctor advises yogurt to normalize the flora within your body, the attraction of beneficials back to your garden can restore balance and harmony in your back yard.

Think before you squish - make this your mantra for the new Millennium. Remember that you may not always know why this creature is climbing the clematis, lurking on the lobelia, or sniffing your snapdragons. 

Everyone’s least favourite garden pest, aphids, seen here smothering rose buds.

“Don’t be in a Hurry with your Seeds!” by David Tarrant

February is often the month when we get carried away and start to sow annual seeds too early for the season ahead. The key factor to think about when sowing seeds is to count how many weeks it will be before it is safe to plant them outside. In climates such as ours on the west coast this is usually around the third week of May, while in cooler areas it may not be until the first week of June.

Usually twelve to fourteen weeks growing time is just right for the average bedding plant. However, it must be stressed that having the correct conditions is vital for success. All seedlings respond well to being sown in a temperature around 18-20 Celsius. But once germinated, they need much cooler temperatures: around 12 by day and down to 8 or 10 degrees at night. During the day, supplemental light for thirteen hours is a great help. It can be as simple as two fluorescent tubes, one warm white and the other cool white, mounted in a moveable holder so that they can be adjusted to be 30 to 40 cm from the seedlings - this will prevent stretched growth. Good air circulation is essential at all times to prevent fungus attacks and damping off.

Rather than being too hasty to sow seeds this month, concentrate on preparing a room - either a spare room or in your basement. Better yet, get your cool greenhouse ready for a mass sowing next month.

January Garden Action Items:

As long as you aren’t buried under three feet of snow, there is always a lot of work to do in the garden, so bundle up warmly, put on your wellies and out you go…

1. Hardwood Cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings of your favourite shrubs to increase your stock - just think, they will make great Christmas presents for your friends next year! Follow the detailed instructions on the page “Hardwood Cuttings”

2. Houseplant Care:
Water houseplants sparingly - they are not usually growing as vigorously as during the other seasons and will not require as much water. Do try to keep up the humidity around them though, as indoor winter air can be extremely dry. Stand shallow bowls of warm water around your pots, or stand them on a large plant tray full of pebbles, making sure to keep the water level just below the pot bottom so water isn’t wicked up into the pot and overwaters your plants. Give your houseplants as much strong bright light as possible, but keep them away from cold draughts, and radiators. Never leave a plant on a windowsill between the glass and closed curtains or blinds, it is much too cold. Move them away from the windows at night, and back in the morning.

3. Winter Pruning of Trees and Shrubs:
With the tree framework clearly visible during this time of year, it is much easier to see what pruning is necessary, if any. Remove any damaged or diseased branches first, no matter where they are on a plant, as it would be unhealthy to leave them. Then start to remove more selectively any crossing branches, or any that are badly placed, or going where you don’t want them. Try to have an open, clear centre on a tree, with the main branches growing in an attractive shape outwards. This lets in light and air into the centre of the tree and prevents stale, stagnant air which may harbour disease. Be sure to use the right tool for the job - pruners or a sharp knife for small branches only; loppers and saws where necessary to get a clean, sharp cut.

4. Snow Removal
In areas of significant snowfall (or the wet, heavy type of snow we get in milder areas), it is always a good idea to walk around the garden and where possible, remove any snow from vulnerable plants such as specimen trees and shrubs and the tops of hedges. This prevents branches being weighed down and possibly broken or damaged by the weight of the snow.

5. Clean up and Preparation
Thoroughly clean cold frames and cloches not in use so they will be ready for those early seeds and cuttings. Use hot, soapy water and a good scrub brush and wash both inside and outside of all surfaces to remove grime and any overwintering pests.

6. Soil and Bed Preparation
Put down a layer of compost and/or leaf mould over your borders. Lightly work it in with a fork, being extremely careful around the surface crowns of perennials, and emerging shoots of spring bulbs. You don’t have to dig around too much, the rain and worms will all help to mix the layers together through the year.

7. Moving Shrubs.
This is a good time to move any shrub or small tree that is growing in the wrong spot, or one that has outgrown it’s current position. Prepare the new planting hole well, digging some compost into a hole wider and deeper than the rootball of the plant to be moved. Carefully move the plant, taking care to disturb the soil around the roots as little as possible and place in the new spot at the same depth as before. Firm the soil and stake the tree if necessary. Water in well, and mulch with bark or more compost. If the shrub is very large, prune it back a little to help the roots support it.

8. Plant New Shrubs:
Bare root shrubs such as roses can be planted now, as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid. Follow the directions above for moving shrubs.

9. Bring the Garden Indoors:
Bring pots of spring flowering bulbs indoors now for early blooms. Start to water them a little more and enjoy early snowdrops, daffodils, hyacinths, and more. Another great thing to do is cut some branches from early spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, cherry, witch hazel, etc to bring indoors. I enjoy doing this even with shrubs that don’t flower, as the fresh new leaves are so beautiful and delicate in themselves. Simply put them in a cool, bright area in a large heavy vase of water, and pretend it is already spring!

10. Order Your Seeds Early
It is time now to order your seed varieties for the upcoming season, especially the new or “hot” varieties for the year, as these sell out very quickly. You should have received a few seed catalogues already, more are probably on their way right now. Always make a point to try at least one or two new ones a year, maybe not the latest and greatest of anything, just something you haven’t got in your garden and always wanted. Check out eSeeds for all your favourite brands, all in one place for convenience and security - we will be adding new varieites non-stop for the next few months, so come back often.

January Garden How-To:

Hardwood Cuttings:

Continue to take fully ripe, hardwood cuttings from trees and shrubs to increase your stock or share with friends. This is as easy to do as the soft cuttings most people are more comfortable doing - here’s how:

a) Choose strong side shoots, about as thick as a pencil, from the current year’s growth.

b) Cut with a clean, sharp knife or pruner just below a bud. If the cutting is longer than 1 foot, trim the top as necessary.

c) Remove all but the top leaves in milder areas, all of them in colder areas (if there are any left).

d) Make a narrow, V-shaped trench in a shady, protected spot in the garden, about 6-9 inches deep. Sprinkle an inch of coarse sand in the bottom to help with drainage.

e) Dip the base of each cutting into a rooting hormone powder. Lay them almost vertically on the side of the trench, about 6 inches apart, with the base firmly in the sand.  Fill back the trench, almost burying the cuttings. For cold climates, cover with mulch once the ground is completely frozen.

f) Leave them in place until next fall before transplanting to their final location.

Plants to try propagating this way include roses, dogwoods, honeysuckles, philadelphus, poplar, ribes, willow and many others. Try a few different varieties, as some do take easier than others. Good luck!

“Late December Decisions” by ???

As I sit writing this journal entry to close to the dreaded Y2K, I stop and think we may not have to worry about pruning or seed ordering in a few days. If things collapse next week I can be sure of one thing - the bamboo jungle in front of my house is sure to survive…

It’s rather pleasant these days on the Wetcoast, plantwise, that is. The walk up to the video store offers an education in winter flowering plants as well as hedging of which I am in desperate need.

First there is the incredible Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum). Its name tells all. Florum meaning flowers or flowering and nudi, for naked. The zone 6-10 plant has long leafless stems with beautiful yellow flowers. Paler yellow than forsythia and a great sight in late December and January when there’s not too much happening out there. Placed perfectly on the top of a 10 ft high concrete bank, the flowering stems which can trail up to 12′-15′ hide much of the concrete wall. Winter Jasmine is so vigorous, I don’t feel guilty at all clipping branches throughout the winter for indoor flowers.

Jasmine nudiflorum flowers on bare stems before the leaves, thus the name ‘nudiflorum’.

You can grow this easily by cuttings without rooting hormones at anytime of year. Plant in most any soil - it will do quite well in poor soils and does not need to be babied with lots of water. Full sun or shade (less flowers in the shade).

Past the Winter Jasmine, there are a few houses with some very choice plantings. In particular, a very handsome Privet hedge. I believe it is California Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) hardy in zones 6-10. It must be about 12′ high in a planting about 20′ long and quite narrow in spread, about 5′, from diligent pruning I would expect. It does the job that’s for sure. The hedge is a perfect screen from the neighbors next door, even in the winter because of its semi-evergreen (evergreen this year) status. All Privets grow fast so the only downfall is the maintenance factor. Pruning is essential if you want this specimen as a hedge, as well as a part-shade to sunny location.

   
Try alternating holly varieties for a beautiful, festive hedge

Another hedge that nearly got me into a car accident was a brilliant planting of Holly (Ilex crenata). Am I the only one who looks at the hedges and trees more than the road? This hazardous 15′ hedge was very dense with two different varieties planted alternately the whole length of the house. One was a variegated variety with lots of creamy yellow leaf and the other was a very dark lustrous green with berries sprinkled here and there. It was beautiful. Darned if I know the varieties, there was no parking nearby. Ilex is a slow grower in zones 5-7 with some cultivars performing adequately in zone 8, but that’s getting a bit warm for these evergreens.

My ongoing hedge stress…The Mahonia x media ‘Winter Sun’ bushes planted a few months ago are doing fine. They actually have a small raceme of yellow flowers this year but haven’t budged in height yet. Perhaps they will shoot up in the spring. Unfortunately, they are slow growing shrubs. Slow, as in 2-3′ over 3 years!

What to do, what to do. May try some privet, but really have my eyes on a yellow flowering Camellia…Or maybe some just some boring old Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus). Can you tell I’m a Libra?

by Linda D. Harris, Horticulturist, Ferry-Morse Seed Company

Winter covers the ground everywhere north of Zone 8. Right now your next garden is still a dream. Begin now to make the dream real.

Start planning on paper. Then begin thinking about which seeds to start for the next garden’s flowers, herbs and vegetables indoors. Growing plants from seed is infinitely more satisfying than setting out plants you’ve purchased. Try it and see if you don’t agree.

Organize Your Supplies

You’ll need a plant light or a large, south-facing window; seed-starting pots and trays; seed-starting medium; plastic labels; a pencil or dibble; and a mister bottle. These are the basics. You can also get fancy with a light timer, a copper watering can with a rose attachment, wrought-iron stands, humidifiers, soil thermometers, and the like. But those are optional.

Light

I’ve had the best seedling results with a normal fluorescent shop light hung from chains in the basement. Or use a tabletop plant light with cool-white fluorescent tubes.The critical thing is to provide light close to the tops of the plants. By this, I mean 6 to 8 inches above the top leaves. As plants grow, lights have to move up, too. The other requirement is to leave the lights on 12 to 18 hours per day, then off at night. This simulates nature’s “day” and produces the best germination and early growth.

Later I use my shop lights to grow later-started seedlings, and all year round I grow blooming and green plants underneath. I always have a “green spot” to cheer my eye and my soul.

If you are using a large, south-facing window, get the plants right IN the window, as close as possible to the glass, and turn them daily. Plants grown with nature’s light may dry out faster and have the disadvantage of occasionally being a little spindly.

Seed-Starting Medium

Please use a sterile seed starting medium, available in bags so marked, for starting your seeds. Starting with sterile medium assures you of the best environment for seedlings. Also use new plastic or peat pots or trays. Please don’t use ones from before; there could be diseases present.

Temperature

To germinate, seeds need soil which is moist and ranging between 65 to 70 degrees F. Some like it warmer. This is the SOIL temperature I’m talking about. I like to put my seed trays up on the refrigerator until I see the first seedling popping through. This “bottom heat” is especially good for impatiens and pepper seeds.Once the seeds have germinated and they are under the lights, the AIR temperature should be 70 to 75 degrees F. during the day or cooler, and 60 to 65 degrees F. at night. This fluctuating temperature is very important to plant growth. First, it mimics nature. During the day when the lights are on, the small plants are producing food and new cells. The fluorescent light keeps them from getting too warm. When air temperatures are too high, the growth will be too fast, which makes the cell walls thinner and the plants weak. That’s why they often flop over and cause your heart to despair. But with cooler night temperatures and a cycle of dark, the plants have a normal rest cycle which strengthens their cell growth.

My house naturally fluctuates in temperature during the winter, as I’m sure yours does. At night, the thermostat is turned lower for the comfort of the humans and pets, and is perfect for plants as well.

Water

The key to watering seedlings is “evenly moist”. That means an equal amount of water all the way through the medium.Some people like to water from the bottom when plants are very small, allowing pots or trays to soak up water for an hour or so, then taking the water source away.You can also water from the top, using a very gentle stream. The best time to water is when the surface of the medium begins to lighten (indicating it is beginning to dry out). Water during the daylight cycle so leaves can dry off well before dark sets in. This will help prevent mildew problems.

Remember to check your seedlings daily and don’t let them dry out. But don’t let them stay too wet, either. When plants are very small, they don’t use as much water as they will later when their roots develop and grow.

Flowers to Start Indoors

Some annual flowers need a headstart indoors because they are either slow to germinate or slow-growing to the transplant stage.These annual seeds do best if started indoors: coleus, impatiens, flowering kale, lobelia, melampodium, pansy, petunia, pinks, verbena, and vinca (periwinkle).

        
Petunias, coleus, verbena, pansies

Likewise some perennials, if started early indoors, may bloom the first year in the garden. Another benefit of starting some perennials indoors is to set out a sturdy, started plant for best growth and performance.

Perennial seeds for indoor starting include columbine, delphinium, English daisy, moss verbena, ornamental fountain grass, pinks, salvia, veronica and viola.

Vegetables to Start Indoors

Eggplant, onion, and pepper seeds need some time (10 to 12 weeks) to develop indoors, and that’s why I’ve listed them first. Tomatoes also need a headstart, but please don’t start them until about March. Only 6 to 8 weeks are required for tomato plants growing indoors. Many people get impatient and start tomatoes too early, ending up with large, floppy, hungry plants which may not transplant as well as smaller ones do.

Herbs to Start Indoors

These herb seeds are good candidates for a bit of a headstart: catmint, catnip, clary, horehound, lavender, lemon balm, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme.Soak parsley seed in room-temperature water for several hours before planting to give it a little boost.

Choosing Varieties

There are so many varieties of flowers and vegetables to choose from, it can be confusing. Here are some guidelines to refer to before you choose. Flowers: You’ll want to think about where you’ll be planting them as you select the variety. Check the height of the plant. For massed plantings, you may want to grow a single color for greatest impact. For vegetables, check the days to maturity/harvest. Some varieties are earlier than others and this can be an important factor in what you grow for food. And if a variety has been deemed an “All-America Winner” or a “Fleuroselect Winner”, you know already that it will perform well for you because it has been tested extensively and judged to be superior.

Ferry Morse Seed Company is an eSeeds Business Partner.

“Pruning Houseplants” by David Tarrant

January is a good time to prune certain houseplants, particularly such vigorous growers as hibiscus and bougainvillea.

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese Hibiscus) is a beautiful and easy houseplant.

With the many indoor cultivars of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, if they are in a well-lit sunny window, they continue to send out the odd blossom even at this time of the year making the decision to prune a difficult task. However, the shrubby stems should be pruned back by at least two thirds by the end of the month. If it is a standard on a single stem, just the top bushy branches should be pruned. If you have to prune back into leafless branches, always prune directly above an outward facing dormant bud (as for roses outdoors).

Bougainvillea glabra and its many cultivars are often grown as houseplants which are put outside for the summer and brought indoors for the winter months, where they often lose most of their leaves. It is a rambunctious, thorny vine in nature and tends to form quite a dense mass which should also be pruned and thinned out this month. With most bougainvilleas, there are definite main branches which should be left unpruned; however, all the side shoots coming from them should be pruned back to within a couple of leaf buds from the main stem.

Pruning your woody houseplants at this time of year will encourage plenty of healthy new growth during the next six to eight weeks leading to great blooms later in the year.

Bougainvillea with a collection of other houseplants makes a great window display. Shown here are also a Calamondin orange (Citrofortunella mitis ‘Varieta’) at left; Crimson Bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus) lower centre with the red flowers; and Rosette succulent (Aeonium arboraum ‘Atropurpureum’) at right.

Seed storing and planting, and houseplant TLC
by David Tarrant

Winter time for gardeners is dream time - having put the garden to bed we turn to our gardening magazines and all the wonderful gardening books available to make great plans for the season ahead. One good hands-on activity coupled with this planning would be to review your seed collection. Many of us have seeds left over from last spring, or may have some freshly collected from the fall. Hopefully they are all labelled well and safely stored in a sealed container in the crisper drawer of your fridge. Take them out on one of these gray, wintry mornings and make an inventory list so that you will know what not to re-order when the seed catalogues come in January or you check your eseeds list.

If you have some shrub or tree seeds and you are chomping at the bit to play in the soil, fill a few pots with potting soil and sow the hard dry seeds of maples, roses and oaks, to name a few. Bury the seeds about half an inch deep covering them with some coarse sand which will prevent mosses and liverworts from growing on the surface. Label the pots and place them out in your cold frame where they can freeze a bit over the winter months, which will trigger them into sprouting come spring.

With houseplants, one of the most difficult elements they have to deal with indoors is the lack of humidity in the air. So brown tips on leaves become even more pronounced during the low light months of winter. Try standing your pots on saucers of clean pea gravel keeping them topped up with water just below the surface of the gravel. If you are worried about the water going sour, add a little crushed charcoal to the gravel. As the water evaporates it will add humidity to the plants immediate growing area twenty-four hours per day. For the best results the saucer should be one and a half sizes larger than the diameter of the pot. In Europe, it is possible to purchase plant trays to custom fit indoor window ledges. Daily misting from a spritzer also helps. Try to turn your pots around at least every two weeks to prevent them from becoming lopsided growing towards a light source.

Some of us go away for winter vacations and have to leave plants unattended for a week or two. To keep them happy, water each one well, then place them close together inside a big clear plastic bag (the type you get when you bring clothes home from the dry cleaners). When full of plants, seal the top and leave them near a window. The bag works like a giant terrarium and sometimes the plants do better in there than with your regular care!