June 21, 2006

Lavender’s Blue….

Just as many early to mid summer plants start to look a bit tired, the lavender bushes send up their beautiful blue spires with their unmistakable old-fashioned fragrance to lift the whole garden out of the doldrums. What a treat this plant is, easy care and totally reliable, it is also extremely drought tolerant which seems to be what everyone is talking about these days.

Lavender is one of the mediterranean herbs that thrives in almost any soil except wet sticky clay. It needs good drainage and as much sun as it can get, but will be ok in a slightly shady spot. The leaves have a blue-green tint to them, some with a silvery sheen due to the tiny hairs on them which help reflect the sun. It is a sub-shrub, the leaves remain on the bush all year round so it makes an excellent informal hedge. It can be clipped right after flowering to tidy it up, and this will reward you with a second flush of flowers towards September or October.

The flowers are generally shades of lilac to deep purple, with some pinks and a lovely white. Especially decorative are the French or Spanish lavenders with their elongated top petals which look like tiny butterflies hovering over the plant. This works very well as a specimen plant - try it in one of those wonderful big terracotta pots for a choice garden feature.

 

 

Lavender grows readily from seed and will be in flower next summer if you sow them now. eSeeds.com is featuring several selected varieties of lavender at 50% off until the end of June.

Comments Off

June 20, 2000

“Shrubs in the garden, perennials from seed and garden surprises”

Final Thoughts:
“Shrubs in the garden, perennials from seed and garden surprises” by Mala Gunadasa-Rohling

A nice surprise greeted me one morning a couple of weeks ago - I looked out the window at the weeping willow that hangs over one corner of our garden from the neighbours (a very nice ‘borrowed’ plant) and saw that the lower branches were covered in beautiful pink blooms! During last summer, without anyone noticing, the clematis that grows along our fence had reached up and grown into the weeping willow, and was now in full bloom.

I have a beautiful forsythia bush in the garden, in direct view of the office window. It has lovely fresh green leaves and extremely graceful, tall arching branches. This bush wasn’t pruned last year, (unlike the chopped back one right next to it) and was left to grow into its natural shape and height - about 10 feet tall! This would be great if the weather cooperated: I expect annuals and some perennials to be affected by a heavy rainstorm and flop over, especially the topheavy ones like paeonies, delphiniums, and the delicate, wispy wildflowers I am so fond off. That is why there are always instructions to stake them…But shrubs? Shouldn’t woody shrubs stand up by themselves? I always thought so, but not in the case of this forsythia! On a rainy day, or even the damp, misty days of a Vancouver spring and summer, the days that seem like 200% humidity, the moisture collects on all the leaves and branches and folds them over. My lovely bush looks like a sad, overgrown mop turned upside down in the garden. Pathetic. Almost horizontal, it leans precariously over the other plants around it, threatening to knock over the lilies coming up beside it.

What happened to this bush? Why would it grow so tall? It was probably overfertilised, resulting in far too much fresh, lush growth last year that hasn’t developed any woody structure and so flops around badly. It would have better to grow half that height and have the strength to support itself properly. It is also growing in a rather shady spot - it probably needs more and stronger sunshine to prevent the lax habit, just like seedlings get leggy if they don’t get enough light.

The best thing to do for this plant is to give it a severe pruning right after flowering (oh, did I mention that these nice long stems barely had any flowers on them at all this spring? And I was so looking forward to a lovely show of bright yellow…it never materialised). Remember that forsythia roots from cuttings very easily, you could quickly have a whole hedge of it. It actually makes a very attractive informal flowering hedge - just keep it fairly low, no more than 4 feet tall.

The other shrubs in the garden are doing very well, except perhaps for the rhododendrons. These look a little sickly and sparse…seem to be losing a lot of the lower leaves, and the rest are a bit yellow. This is probably because of bad drainage, most of the garden is a bit of a bog, so much so that I can watch the corner of the patio sinking into the ground after a rainfall.

The ceonothus bushes are doing fine, as are the witch hazel, hebes, hydrangeas and skimmias. The Pacific dogwoods are not almost the size of small trees, very attractive in shape and form. They are a bit late in flowering this year, only now are the first pale, creamy blooms appearing.

Growing perennials from seed is particularly rewarding, as the results will last for many years. My Shasta daisies, lavender and lychnis will be blooming very shortly and I’m really looking forward to them! The daisy buds are numerous enough to risk cutting some and bringing them indoors, as they are supposed to last quite long in a vase. The lychnis, with its soft, hairy silver-green leaves should make a great contrast to the brilliant, magenta flowers. I love the bright colour of this flower, and there is a lovely white version also which I must get.

As for the lavender, who doesn’t like this plant? Easy care, will grow in poor soil, doesn’t need much water, and just a trim at the end of the season to tidy it up if you wish. The fragrance is unforgettable, as is the colour. Delicate yet hardy at the same time. As useful as you want to make it (you can make soap and cosmetics from it, use it for scent sachets or potpourri, even cook with it), it also looks lovely just sitting there in the border or in a pot on the patio. I have just finished reading a book where the author tells a story that takes place in the lavender fields that used to cover the hills of southwest London in the 1800’s. A particularly touching story of a young girl and her sick baby brother takes place in these fields…I will never be able to look at a lavender bush again without remembering Lucy and Horatio. It is truly amazing how your perception of plants changes with experiences like this - where a flower has a part in a good book or movie, or even more strongly, if it is part of a friend or relatives treasured garden…if you can possibly get a cutting or seeds from these plants, or resort to buying a similar plant from a nursery, even if it is the ordinary, everyday variety, it is guaranteed to produce more pleasure and memories for you than anything that doesn’t have this ‘background’ or ‘association’. Make sure your garden is filled with your own personal favourites to really get the most enjoyment from it.

Comments Off

Increase your vegetable production with Succession Planting

June In-Depth How-To:
Increase your vegetable production with Succession Planting

Many beginner gardeners plant their crops in the spring, harvest the vegetables, then clean up the garden and wait till next year to start all over again. It is very easy to get more enjoyment, not to mention more production out of your garden. Try succession planting for a constant supply of fresh produce all summer (and into autumn) long. No matter where you live, you can harvest at least two crops from the same area of the garden during the growing season.

Divide the crops you will be growing into two different categories : cool weather and warm weather crops. Crops that do well in cool weather include: beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, celery, kohlrabi, lettuce, parsnips, peas, radish, spinach, mustard greens, kale, turnips and swiss chard. Plant these varieties as early in the growing season as possible for your area of the country. After you have harvested these varieties from the garden, follow up by planting your warm weather vegetables. 

Warm weather vegetables include: beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, tomatoes and watermelons. In a few areas of the country, a third planting of the cool weather crops can be planted again in the fall. Below are some examples of succession planting.

 

 

In many areas of the southern US, the growing season can be over 230 days.

Start by planting lettuce, spinach or other cool weather crops that can be harvested in 60 to 75 days. Follow that with a planting of beans or cucumbers (these also mature in about 60 to 75 days). This will still leave you with about 70 days for a late planting of root crops, cole crops or greens. Or as a second crop, you can plant corn, tomatoes, melons etc. and still have these mature by the end of the season.

In the northern areas of the country, you also can get two crops out of the same section of the garden. With as little as 150 days in the season, you can plant an early maturing lettuce or radish and follow with a crop of beans. In northern states with a longer growing season, tomatoes, melons, corn, etc. can all be planted after you have harvested the earlier crops of lettuce, spinach and cole crops.

Just remember, in order to plan succession planting, you have to know how many days each variety takes to mature and how long your growing season is. Also, do not plant members of the same family in succession, as this could put a strain on your soil’s resources. More on this aspect of vegetable gardening, known as ‘Crop Rotation’ in a future issue of the Journal.

Comments Off

Book Review:”Perennials for British Columbia” by Alison Beck & Marianne Binetti

Summer Book Review:
“Perennials for British Columbia” 
by Alison Beck & Marianne Binetti.

Lone Pine Publishing
ISBN 1-55105-258-X
Softcover. 352 pages.
$21.95 CAD Suggested Retail Price

This new book from Lone Pine Publishing is the Canadian (British Columbia to be precise) edition of the gardening guide ‘Perennials for Washington and Oregon’, launched at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show in Seattle, February 2000. The small, soft cover book (a handy size to take with you to the local nursery) describes 95 species, with several varieties, hybrids and cultivars of each, bringing the total number of plants covered to 434. With over 500 colour photographs for illustration, and the basic facts about each species clearly listed (flower colour, bloom season, height, hardiness, light requirements, soil conditions), this is an excellent beginner to intermediate gardeners guide to a wide selection of appropriate plants for this particular area.

The book gets off to a good start with an Introduction that explains the different gardening regions and zones within this vast province. Anyone who lives in B.C. clearly knows the difference between gardening on the wet, warm West Coast and the dry, desert-like interior with its extremes of temperatures. B.C. actually has areas that correspond to nine main temperature zones as defined by Agriculture Canada, and yes, a Zone map is presented (it stops at Prince Rupert, leaving the top 1/3 of the province blank, claiming no data available). It continues on to explain how different 5 degrees F (-15 degrees C) can be with or without reliable snow cover, an important point for people that worship zone maps!

The Introduction then proceeds to describe the basics of perennial gardening, with information on what a perennial is, how to design a space taking into consideration different plant textures and shapes as well as flowers and how to determine the different growing areas within your garden space. The section on preparing the garden briefly covers composting, how to choose a good specimen at a nursery and then how to plant it once you get it home. The information is simple, basic and to the point, and is nicely illustrated with photographs.

The book then discusses perennial care, covering weeding, mulching, deadheading, pruning, staking, watering and fertilizing. All the basics are explained in simple language that any beginner can easily understand and follow, to get great results. The section on propagation outlines seed preparation and sowing, taking cuttings, both root and shoot, and also plant division. Everyone should have a go at propagation for its challenges and rewards - lots of plants at no additional cost (or very little as in the case of seed packets - the book doesn’t cover seed saving) - and this section should give you the confidence needed to jump in and have fun and success.

Finally, still in the Introduction (it goes for 60 info-packed pages!), there is a section on common pests and problems, including identification and control.

With the basics covered, the bulk of the book is an alphabetical (by common name) description of 95 species. Common and latin names are listed which is nice, since this is the only way you can be sure you are talking about the same plant as someone else. Descriptions and a couple of photos illustrate the plants features, how and where it can be used, where it should be planted. There is a list of recommended varieties to look and ask for. A handy Quick Reference Chart (cross references common names with flower colour, height, bloom period, hardiness, light and soil conditions )at the end of the book will help plan and design your new perennial beds. A brief Glossary explains the terms used throughout the book.

The authors are experienced gardeners, as well as having wide knowledge of related fields. Marianne Binetti has a degree in Horticulture from Washington State University and extensive experience in the nursery and retail florist trade. She now lectures to garden groups, writes for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and other newspapers across the state as well as national magazines. Alison Beck has a diploma in Horticultural Technology as well as a degree in Creative Writing and Classical Studies, and has been gardening since childhood.

This book is an excellent starting point for anyone that doesn’t have much experience with perennials, or for more experienced gardeners that are looking for a good selection of plants for the particular growing conditions of British Columbia and similar climates (it would work well for most areas of England for example). The simple, straightforward text is helpful and covers the basics nicely. The full-colour photos are of good quality and illustrate the plants features very well. All in all, a great little book to expand your gardening repertoire. Look for it in local bookshops or order toll-free direct from Lone Pine Publishing at 800-661-9017.

Comments Off

June Garden Action Items

It’s official - summer is here, although the rainy and cold weather that we’ve been having so far in Vancouver (and also in England if Chelsea coverage is anything to go by) wouldn’t let on to that fact…still, there is lots to do in the garden now, so out you go!

  1. Start to sow quick maturing vegetable seeds such as lettuce and radish on a regular two-week basis for the next couple of months. This will ensure a steady supply of fresh produce that is ready on a staggered time frame, and doesn’t mature all at the same time. Remember that these quick crops are a great starter plant for children, as their speedy germination and growth can be easily monitored and appreciated before they lose interest.
  2. Make sure that watering of newly emerging seedlings and freshly planted out flowers and vegetables is done very regularly! Don’t let them dry out too much at this delicate stage as they will not have the resources to recover, as will more established plants.
  3. Keep a close and vigilant eye out for garden pests. A small infection caught now will be much easier to control than a rampant infestation in a few weeks time. Aphids, blackfly, greenfly, slugs, etc can multiply at an alarming rate at this time of year. Try hand picking them, squashing them between your fingers (wear gloves if you are squeamish!). Some sources suggest a strong spray with a water jet to dislodge them - I don’t like this method personally as I’m sure they’ll be back within minutes? A mild soap solution seems a much better bet. Whichever method you choose, the trick is to catch the bad bugs early and regularly.
  4. By now almost all danger of severe frost has passed in even the coldest areas, and bedding plants can be safely put outside into the garden. Make sure they have been slowly acclimatised, though, or the sudden shock of moving them from a warm, sheltered indoor or greenhouse location straight outside can set them back quite a lot.
  5. It’s time to start the regular schedule of mowing the lawn, and if you haven’t done so already, the blades can now be lowered to their final desired position. If you cut regularly enough so that only a tiny bit is taken off each time, you won’t have to worry about the clippings, just let them fall back down. If you wait until you are removing an inch or two, it is often tidier to collect the clippings, either at the same time with the bag attached or raking up afterwards. Remember that these clippings are great for the compost heap, or used as a mulch (after they have been laid out to turn brown).
  6. All manner of vegetable crops can be sown outside throughout this month and will mature in time to produce a healthy harvest. Try beans, carrots, squash, peas, corn, lettuce, spinach and beets for a good assortment of fresh produce, guaranteed to taste better than anything you get from the supermarkets!
  7. With rows of vegetables planted earlier this year, it is now time to thin them to the correct spacing. This depends on the crop grown, and will be indicated on the seed packet. Firm the soil back around the row and water gently to settle the soil. A row of plants that is too close together will never reach its full potential, and the final produce load will be smaller than if you are brave and thin out now. This is a difficult job for some people (I definitely fall into this category!!) but remember that you can almost always use these little seedlings for fresh and trendy ‘baby vegetables’. Especially delicious are tiny carrots, beets and leeks which can be eaten whole, leaves and all in fresh salads or braised/grilled lightly in a pan.
  8. A little fertiliser sprinkled around rapidly growing shrubs and perennials will help them flower to their best. Scratch it in gently around the plants, not directly up against the stem but in a wide circle around the base. Water in if rain isn’t expected shortly.
  9. Now is a good time to divide those spring flowering perennials such as hellebores, primulas and pulmonarias. After the flowers have faded, dig up any old, established clumps and gently divide them into smaller pieces, each with its own section of leaves and roots. Replant these sections where desired or share them with friends.
  10. Early this month, cut back spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia. This will keep the bush in shape as it tends to get a bit loose and straggly otherwise, as well as quickly outgrowing it’s allotted space! Cutting back at this time of year rather than in late autumn will ensure a good crop of flowers next spring as the plant has time to grow the shoots which will bear blossoms next season.
Comments Off

May 6, 2000

Seedtapes: how to use them and their benefits

Even experienced gardeners can benefit by using some seedtapes - this is a super easy and fast way to sow seeds that are the perfect space apart every time (no more thinning, which is great for people like myself that can’t bear to remove perfectly healthy seedlings just because they are too close to another perfectly heathly seedling!). 

Here’s how to do it:
1. Prepare the bed or border exactly the same way as if you were broadcast sowing seeds or setting out established seedlings.

2. Make a trench where you want the plants to grow that is the same depth as individual seeds would have been planted. Use the edge of a hoe or handle of a rake. If you want perfectly straight lines, say for vegetables, you can use a board as an edge. A string stretched taut between two end pegs works very well also. (see picture below)

3. Lay strips of seedtape down in the trench (see picture below) and cover, firming the soil gently. Water in as for individual seeds. 

The paper or plastic that holds the seeds in place will degrade over the season, there is no need to remove it at any time. This techniqe of seed sowing is very simple, great for kids (or anyone that has trouble handling small seeds or just simply doesn’t have the patience!), and there is no waste. Check out the many varieties of flowers and vegetables available this way, and save yourself many headaches this season.

All the varieties listed below are available on eSeeds.com - or by special order: just send us an email indicating the type you want and number and we will post them directly to you. Please don’t send credit card details by email, call our toll-free customer service number at 1-877-373-3376.

Flowers:        
Alyssum ‘Snow Cloth’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 250mg McKenzie
Cosmos ‘Early Sensation Mixed’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 2g McKenzie
Cutflower ‘Early Flowering Mix’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Portulaca ‘Double Flowered’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 150mg McKenzie
Snapdragon ‘Dwarf Lollipops’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 120mg McKenzie
Zinnia ‘Tetra-flowered’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 1.25g McKenzie
         
Vegetables:        
Beet ‘Cylindra Formanova’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 930mg McKenzie
Beet ‘Detroit Dark Red’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 2g McKenzie
Beetroot ‘Boltardy’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Carrot ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 710mg McKenzie
Carrot ‘Scarlet Nantes’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 900mg McKenzie
Carrot ‘Autumn King’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Carrot ‘Early Nantes’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Cucumber ‘National Pickling’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 3.5g McKenzie
Lettuce ‘Grand Rapids’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 550mg McKenzie
Lettuce ‘Cos’/'Romaine’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 350mg McKenzie
Lettuce ‘Mixed Leaves’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Onion ‘Annual Bunching’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 1.25g McKenzie
Spring Onion ‘White Lisbon’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Parsley ‘Single Hardy Italian’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 780mg McKenzie
Radish ‘Cherry Belle’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 3.1g McKenzie
Radish ‘French Breakfast’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 1.65g McKenzie
Radish ‘Globe Varieties Mix’ $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Spinach Beet (Perpetual Spinach) $3.49 5m (17′)   Unwins
Swish Chard ‘Fordhook Giant’ $2.49 4.5m (15′) 2.4g McKenzie

All these varieties can be sown in spring/early summer or again in September/October for fall and winter harvesting or earlier blooms next spring.

May Garden Action Items

May and June are really the best months for many perennials, before the real heat of the summer cuts them short. Work in the garden takes on the familiar rhythm of seasons past, with some staking, potting up seedlings, preparing beds for annuals, planting out, etc etc. A busy time, but filled with promise and good things ahead…

1. Pot on young plants and rooted cuttings regularly to ensure that they don’t get potbound and slowed down in their growth. At least every 10 days to two weeks, they should be checked by gently removing them from their pot (turn it over and tap out the rootball). If you can start to see roots around the edges, it is time to put it into the next size pot. If you have left it too late and the young roots are circling around the bottom and sides of the pot, don’t despair! Just rough up the root ball a little to loosen the tight roots and place gently in the next size pot. In drastic situations, remove a bit of the overgrown roots by cutting them away.

2. Continue sowing seeds of annuals directly into the ground until the end of this month. They will grow and bloom this season. Try easy and reliable favourites such as cosmos, lavatera, nigella, california poppies and marigolds.

3. Plant some marigolds (tagetes) around the vegetable plants such as tomatoes and carrots. The strong smell of the flowers can help in keeping insects such as whitefly and carrotfly away from the crops. Besides, their cheery and bright colours add interest to this area of the garden until the fruit ripes. Nasturtiums are great for this job also, and are very attractive to aphids, and may keep them off other plants. A few annuals also help in attracting pollinating insects to improve the crop yield in a vegetable area.

4. Feed your roses now as they are just starting to grow vigorously. If you are using a dry fertiliser, scatter around the base of the plant and scratch it in gently. Water if the soil is dry to start it working.

5. Also feed your flowering bulbs as the flowers fade. If you can deadhead them, that’s great, but leave all the foliage intact (don’t bend them over, tie them up, or cut them off). The leaves are the only source of food for the bulb underground, and if they are removed before they have done their job and replenished the bulb’s nutrients, there won’t be any flowers next year. If they are unsightly where they are, it is fine to remove them intact gently with as much soil around them as possible and move them into a nursery bed or quiet corner of the garden where they can finish the season’s growth unnoticed.

6. Don’t be in a hurry to plant out summer bedding or tender annuals - bad frosts can still occur at night until the end of May. Keep them in the greenhouse or coldframe until the end of this month, or be prepared to act quickly if necessary to cover them up with fleece or other material if a cold night is forecast.

7. Now is the time to put stakes in place for all perennials that may need them! Don’t wait until they’ve already toppled over since at that time, they will look terrible propped or tied back up. Plant supports come in many shapes and sizes, from fancy willow cages and small trellises, to shiny metal canes. A simple and effective way that also blends in unobtrusively is to use pea sticks - small branches cut from any shrub or plant stuck into the ground around the plant to be supported. The new branches will grow up around and through the pea sticks and be supported gently without having to be individually tied in.

8. Lawn care - you may need a slight trim at this time, but make it a gentle one with the mower settings as high as possible. They can be lowered later as growth gets more vigourous. Lawns benefit from a raking to remove winter debris such as old leaves and moss. If they are compacted, try aerating them by spiking or even pulling out cores (make sure these are raked up and composted as they look terrible otherwise, and probably plug up the holes they were meant to open!)

9. Prune back stems of hellebores and primulas that have finished flowering. If you want the plants to set seed, leave one or two stems to finish maturing. This will tidy the area, save the plant some energy and prevent too many unwanted seedlings spreading around.

10. Harvest rhubarb now by gripping stems firmly at the base and pulling away from the crown sharply. Try to remove any flowering stems completely.

Beneficial Insects - Part III

“Beneficial Insects - Part III” by Sharon Hanna.Lacewings are unmistakeable: pale green, with slender, elongated bodies, and two pairs of extremely delicate netted wings. Their larvae are similar to that of the ladybird beetle (ladybug), in that they resemble little dragons or alligators, except that they are beige with brown markings.


Adult lacewing

While adult lacewings require nectar for energy, pollen from flowers, and drink the honeydew from aphids, the larva eat anything, and lots of it. It is estimated that during the larval stages, one lacewing can eat up to 800 aphids. 

Known as “indescriminate” feeders, the larva behave like teenage boys, walking over 8 linear miles in one short larval season, consuming anything which lies in their path, including thrips, red mites, spider mites, leaf-hoppers, and also caterpillars. Unlike other beneficials, lacewings produce several generations each growing season, making them possibly the most effective predatory insect we know.


Lacewing larva

Have you been hankering for a “water feature”, for haven’t found a good enough excuse? Here is a great one, for lacewings love (and need) constant humidity to support their dainty physiological structure, and will stay around if you have a garden fountain which will create a constant mist! Or, increase humidity by close planting and using mulch. Lacewings are nocturnal and phototropic (attracted by light), so garden lighting will give them a real welcome. 

Adult lacewings feed on flower nectar, and their number one favourite is Cosmos, and especially the white variety. A good one is aptly-named “Purity”. Other useful plants for them are fennel, alyssum, achillea (tansy), all easily raised from seed, and fundamental to your bio-diverse garden.

  
Alyssum (left) and achillea (right) attract lacewings to your garden

While we are all the subject of beneficial insects, it’s useful to remember that today’s caterpillar is tomorrow’s butterfly. It is another of life’s ironies when one finds that in order to attract butterflies, you must be willing to tolerate damage to the “host” plant.

Years ago, I ripped out a patch of fall asters for that very reason - chewed leaves, caterpillar droppings, and what I felt were unsightly webs. Undoubtedly my backyard is less populated with certain types of butterflies! 

Mother Nature prefers a riot of Everything, including leaves with holes, and she likes it messy. Weevils, slow-moving snub-nosed creatures, might take a few bites of the rhododendron, but they are also food for the kind of birds that you want to attract. 

So, you are invited to play in your own biosphere! And, remember - if this sounds overly bizarre or time-consuming, and relaxing appeals to you, there is another way to help - neglect a part of your garden, and let it be. Leave a rotten stump, stones, and leaves. Mother Nature called them leaves for a reason. Tell your neighbours you have become a “zen” gardener. You are exonerated, for ‘lazy’ gardeners naturally generate biodiversity, a great justification to sit back and watch your garden grow.

 

© Sharon Hanna, Horticultural Writer for Terra Viva Organics (tvorganics.com). All pictures copyright eSeeds.com Inc.

How To Photograph Flowers

Reprinted with permission from the New York Institute of Photography website at www.nyip.com. All photographs on this page by Mala Gunadasa-Rohling.


Sunshine on the new buds and blossoms of a lavatera. (MGR)

It’s spring in many parts of the world. For those of us who spent the winter trapped inside, spring means, among other things, an irresistible chance to grab the camera and start capturing the first blooms of the season. Yet, how do you turn those shots of your favorite blooms into something special? Here are some tips on how to take better flower pictures from the world’s largest photography school, New York Institute of Photography (NYI).

First, walk around the flower to see how it looks with light coming from different directions. Watch carefully when the light (usually, the sun) is behind the flower, coming toward the camera. Often, the petals will glow with beautiful iridescence. This is called “backlighting” because the light is coming from the back of the subject (in this case, the flower). Backlighting is often the best type of lighting for translucent subjects like petals.


Raindrops and dew on leaves and petals add highlights and sparkle to a picture. Shown here are lupine leaves. (MGR)

However, don’t despair if there is no sun. Gray and overcast days provide great opportunities for flower photography. The lighting is more even and there are no shadows. Rain turns colors more intense. You can even carry a spray bottle to create rain droplets on the sunniest of days. Even night photography is an option. You’ll be surprised at how attractive a flower photo can be when illuminated by flash.

Second, to make a flower picture come alive, wait until something adds life to the flower - for example, a bee alights, or a spider crawls into it, or a hummingbird pays a visit. It takes patience, but it pays off if, for example, after you wait a few minutes, a butterfly lands on your flower. Shoot! The picture you get will be great.


Action photo - a hoverfly visits a cosmos bloom on a balcony garden. (MGR)

Three, try interesting angles and backgrounds. Consider getting down low on the ground or shooting with the wide angle setting on your lens. Don’t despair if the background behind the flower is unattractive. Try replacing it with a colored piece of paper or fabric. There are lots of different ways you can experiment when photographing flowers!

    
A simple trellis adds interest to the leaves of a hosta (left) and keeping the focus on the tiny flowers in the foreground makes the others fade gently into the background. (MGR)


Let one large, spectacular bloom fills the frame! Here it is a vivid red-orange lily. (MGR)

April 6, 2000

Spring in the Garden

With all the Millenium hype and the lack of holidays during the first part of this Canadian year, winter has been drearily dragging on and on and on.. But, I know spring is really here when the huge magnolia trees are ready to burst. 

Magnolia stellata (Zone 4-9) has already peaked, but M. kobus (Zone 4-8), and M. soulangiana (Zone 4-9) are just getting ready to do their thing. My favorite of all though, has to be M. grandiflora the Southern or Evergreen Magnolia (Zone 6,7-9). It’s a massive tree growing as tall as 60-80′ and 30-50′ wide. It’s flowers are described as perfect, creamy white, beautifully fragrant and better than the best perfume.

Here in Zone 7 it can be successfully grown in a very sheltered microclimate that may be considered Zone 7 1/2 - 8. In the southern states like Georgia they thrive like our common firs and cedars. How lucky we are in our Zone 7 climate where many of these incredible trees share their beauty, although in a cold winter much damage can be done as we’ve seen in recent years at the botanical gardens. Shelter these babies. 

One thing I can never remember at this time of year is all the planting lore that correlates with the phases of the moon. I want to remember it - it makes so much sense and, hey if the farmers go by it, there must be something to it. Those people make their living from what comes out of the ground, they aren’t growing flowers for fun and decorating. So here it goes. 

The best time to plant annuals (flowers or vegetables) that produce their yield above the ground is during the light of the Moon; that is, between the day the Moon is new to the day it is full. This is also called the waxing of the moon.

An annual is a plant that completes its entire life cycle within one growing season, and has to be seeded each year.. A basic explanation being that at this time the sap of the plant is said to flow upward due to gravitational forces of the moon filling the plant with vitality. 

Plant biennials, perennials, bulb and root plants (potatoes, carrots and beets) during the dark of the Moon; that is, from the day after it is full to the day before it is new again. This is called the waning of the moon. Biennials include crops that are planted one season to winter over and produce crops the next. Perennials, bulb and root plants include all plants that grow from the same root year after year. It is explained in the Farmer’s Almanac that during this period, the plant is oriented toward the root and its sap is rushing downward (also a good time for transplanting).

Interestingly enough, it is believed that the Fourth Quarter (decreasing from half-full to New Moon) is the best time for cultivation, pulling weeds; and destroying pests of all kinds, turning sod, etc. Especially when the moon is one of the barren signs. Now as you read more and more on the topic, you will find all sorts of exceptions to the rule, but the above are the basics. 

Here’s a little ditty that will help you remember when to plant peas.

Sow peasen and beans in the wane of the moon
Who soweth them sooner he soweth too soone
That they with the planet may rest and arise,
And flourish with bearing most plentiful wise.

Thomas Tusser, Farmer & writer Elizabethan era 1558-1603

A very happy gardener am I - Just found a seed packet given to me last fall by gardener extraordinaire Joanne Baskerville who gardens in BC’s interior. In her garden, I spotted some very oddly colored Foxglove in a yummy yellow-apricot. Loving foxglove, but hating pink and purple which is what I’m used to seeing around, I hinted at some seed sharing. Turns out they are a hardy perennial (bonus) by the name of Digitalis lantana x tetra, ‘Johnson’s Tetra.’ A bit late, but better than never, I started these little gems indoors an await germination. I’ll keep you posted on the results.

Now, my neighbor is already on top of his weeding (he’s a rose gardener, can’t you tell!) He came by the other day to say hi (ya sure!) and started eyeing my lovely ‘bed ‘o Weeds.’ “Oh,” he says. “Here it comes,” I thought. “I see you have a lot of the exploding kind. They’re more troublesome than people think,” he says bending down to begin clearing a little area of the culprits. Once again he is correct. Wavy and Hairy Bittercress, also known as Jumping Cress are plants that produce seed whenever the weather is not too cold. We had an extremely mild winter here, so you can guess the population explosion - literally. The seed pods explode up to 80cm from the plant in all directions when touched or ripe enough, disperse potentially hundreds of new little plants. If that isn’t bad enough, when wet, the seeds become sticky and attach themselves to boots and tools spreading them around even further. Forget about Magnolias and Cherry blossoms, when the weeds show their nagging leaves, spring is really here! Indoor Design Tip: The Mini Moss Garden - Use instead of a flower arrangement on your dinner table.

1 Choose a Japanese tea bowl or similar vessel with an Asian feel.

2 Fill bowl with stones almost to the lip of the bowl and add enough water to just cover stones.

3 Cover stones with pieces of moss from shady areas of your garden or nearby park (look in the cracks of concrete that is shaded for most of the day) until you have a mini lawn.

4 From your garden cut one or two small flowers like crocus or vibrant periwinkle

5 Cut two small flowering branches like quince or cherry. Bamboo looks great too.

6 Insert your selected materials into the moss deep enough so that the materials stay in place.

Go as minimalist as you like - a little goes a long way!

« Previous entries